Halfway into the high-octane schedule of Paris Fashion Week, the conversation around the tents shifted decisively toward the historic Spanish luxury house Loewe. Marking a full year since former Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez took the creative helm at the brand, the presentation for the Spring/Summer 2027 collection offered a masterclass in modern garment construction. While the runway showcased plenty of the season’s prevailing trends—including exposed clothing labels, rich maximalist layering, and a vibrant palette dominated by electric shades of turquoise and coral—it was an entirely different detail that captured the attention of critics and industry insiders alike. By far, the most compelling element of the debut was the creative duo’s daring, unpredictable interpretation of collars.
From the very first look that emerged onto the runway, McCollough and Hernandez signaled that conventional tailoring codes would be thoroughly deconstructed for the upcoming season. The show opened with a striking collarless bomber jacket, ingeniously unzipped halfway down to alter its natural silhouette and create an entirely new architectural line. As the presentation unfolded, this outerwear piece was revisited in a variation featuring a double collar—one positioned traditionally at the nape of the neck, and a second positioned partway down the chest, utilizing the same unzipped, folding mechanic to disrupt the wearer’s proportions.
This spirit of sartorial subversion extended to a stark, simple white shift dress, which was elevated by a rigid, metallic, reflective copper collar. The reflective treatment was not a one-off gesture; variations of the high-shine collar reappeared throughout the collection in radiant shades of yellow, blue, and that same signature copper, accentuating the necklines of various dresses and tailored trench coats.
As the collection evolved, so too did the breadth of experimentation with necklines and upper-body proportions. V-neck sweaters were casually yet deliberately tucked into skirts, their neckbands skewed, pulled, and twisted to produce an off-center, nonchalant effect. In another standout moment, a supple pullover jacket rendered in bright turquoise leather featured a collar that had been purposefully reversed, making it appear as though it was worn backward. This subtle yet disorienting shift added to the overarching off-beat, intellectual feeling that defined Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2027 outing, proving that McCollough and Hernandez are increasingly comfortable bending the house’s storied heritage toward contemporary abstraction.
Yet, Loewe is far from alone in its fascination with rogue necklines this season. The phenomenon of the displaced, distorted, or exaggerated collar has emerged as a broader narrative across the international runways, signaling a collective desire among designers to find novelty in the details of everyday garments. At August Barron, collars were aggressively pulled down the shoulders, subverting standard shirting norms. Meanwhile, Maison Margiela pushed structural boundaries even further by flipping the collars on classic trench coats, scooping and sculpturalizing outerwear necklines into unexpected curves.
Further amplifying the trend, Balenciaga leaned into volume, presenting oversized and aggressively popped collars that commanded the upper body and framed the nape with a dramatic, almost theatrical approach. With so many major houses playing with the anatomy of the shirt and jacket, these avant-garde iterations are unlikely to be the last examples of the rogue collar we see dominating the fashion landscape this season.
