It is a remarkably wide world out there, full of seductive objects to pursue far beyond the traditional boundaries of horology. In the relentless weekly hunt to curate the finest watch finds for the discerning collector, unique oddities and historical artifacts frequently cross the radar. For those fortunate souls possessing an excess of time, capital, and an appreciation for eccentric pop culture memorabilia, a notable auction titled "Paul Reubens’ Big Auction" is currently underway via Julien’s Auctions, offering an array of items from the late actor best known as Pee-wee Herman—complete with his iconic, highly coveted replica bicycle.
Meanwhile, taking stock of last week’s tracked auction picks reveals a varied landscape of results. The anticipated Orvis Solunagraph heads to the auction block next Thursday, while the striking LIP Mach 2000 chronograph is scheduled to go under the hammer later today. For completed sales, a pristine Patek Philippe reference 5107 changed hands for €13,500, and an eye-catching Omega DeVille Emerald found a new home for a modest $650.
As the vintage market continues to yield surprising pieces from unexpected historical corners, this week’s curated selection spans a fascinating spectrum. From a historically significant triple-date chronograph carrying direct Breguet family provenance and a controversial 1970s French chronograph to a foundational 1960s dive watch and an elusive white gold jewelry timepiece, the market offers plenty of compelling material for serious collectors and casual admirers alike.
A Breguet’s Triple-Date Chronograph With Moon Phase
Stainless steel Breguet triple-date chronographs equipped with a moon phase complication are not exceedingly common, maintaining a notable degree of scarcity within the vintage collecting community. A similar example, offered to the market by Phillips during their Geneva Watch Auction in 2018, commanded a strong price of CHF 131,250. Christie’s subsequently sold another specimen the following year for CHF 300,000, before realizing CHF 176,400 for a third iteration in 2022.
The critical distinction separating those previously sold watches from the current specimen—aside from the fact that those iterations featured noticeably cleaner dials—lies entirely in the realm of provenance. This particular stainless steel triple-date chronograph originates directly from the personal collection of Emmanuel Breguet himself. Serving as the Vice President and Head of Patrimony at Montres Breguet, he is also a direct relative of Abraham-Louis Breguet, the legendary inventor of the tourbillon. In terms of horological pedigree, it is exceedingly difficult to secure a timepiece with a more significant historical lineage.
The collector’s dream invariably centers on a flawless, investment-grade watch, a description that does not strictly apply to this piece. The dial exhibits visible signs of wear and age, which, while not entirely overwhelming, certainly detract from its pristine nature. That being said, given the inherent rarity of the reference, these minor cosmetic issues are easily outweighed by the sheer weight of its provenance. Evaluating this watch feels akin to analyzing the classic Rubin vase optical illusion, forcing the observer to weigh visual condition against historical importance.
Beyond the dial and the unlumed dauphine hands, the stainless steel case appears to be in relatively sound condition, featuring clear caseback engravings. Given how prominently the watch’s lineage is emphasized in the auction documentation, accurately appraising its financial value purely as a functional timepiece presents an intriguing challenge. What is the exact premium of owning a watch directly from a Breguet family member? The market will decide when this remarkable piece comes up for auction next Friday, carrying an ambitious pre-sale estimate ranging between €80,000 and €160,000.
LIP ‘Paul Newman’ Chronograph
This specific reference from the French manufacturer LIP was examined in notable depth by industry writers back in 2017, a fact that somewhat complicates the evaluation of the current example coming to market. While previous research thoroughly detailed the specific production runs and historical context of the reference, the watch currently under consideration does not completely align with the previously documented examples.
Delving deep into the manufacturing history of LIP reveals a brand that was experiencing severe existential struggles throughout the tumultuous 1970s. Given those profound corporate hardships, chasing absolute clarity regarding specific part variations, hand configurations, and dial marks across various production batches is likely a futile endeavor. It is entirely reasonable to assume that this watch is entirely original for its era, assembled using whatever components were readily available at the factory floor level, with little regard for how intensely future collectors would scrutinize its minute details.
The watch itself remains well worth examining, irrespective of the complicated history of LIP and its fluid approach to matching hands and cases during its twilight years. The gold-plated case measures a wearable 36 millimeters and retains sharp, well-defined lugs. While there is a noticeable ding located at the bottom of the bezel between the five and six o’clock positions, the case otherwise presents remarkably well.
Collectors are naturally drawn to this piece primarily for its striking dial and hand configuration, which add another layer of complexity. Specifically, the running seconds subdial positioned at nine o’clock, alongside the LIP logo, exhibits a slightly smudged appearance, as if the dial underwent an imperfect overprinting process during production. The black hand utilized on the nine o’clock subdial may appear unconventional based on earlier historical studies, yet comparable examples with identical hand configurations have previously surfaced and successfully traded on the vintage market.
The correct blue hour and minute hands remain in attractive condition, while the chronograph seconds and minute hands have gracefully faded to a pale, warm orange hue. Powering the watch is a dependable Valjoux 7733 movement, though it currently requires professional intervention given that the chronograph mechanism is not functioning. Fortunately, these movements are widely accessible, meaning a competent watchmaker should be able to service and restore the watch to running order without excessive difficulty. Scheduled to be auctioned next Thursday with a surprisingly modest pre-sale estimate of €500 to €800, this French chronograph presents an accessible entry point for vintage enthusiasts. For collectors seeking an even rarer alternative, a lesser-known LIP reference 765—effectively a Breitling chronograph in everything but the brand name—is also making the rounds.
IWC Aquatimer Reference 812
The enduring presence of the Aquatimer in IWC’s contemporary catalog naturally encourages a retrospective look at the foundational reference that launched the storied dive watch line. Beyond its historical significance, however, this particular watch commands attention simply due to its exceptional aesthetic appeal. It is, first and foremost, a classic ESPA-cased super compressor dive watch originating from the golden era of the 1960s. While such super compressor designs were produced by numerous manufacturers and remain relatively plentiful, models of this caliber stand out prominently.
Introduced in 1967, the Aquatimer reference 812 represented IWC’s inaugural entry into the dedicated dive watch sector. Arriving somewhat late to a crowded market, the watch compensated by offering robust water resistance up to 20 atmospheres, allowing it to compete effectively with its contemporaries. The 37mm case features the characteristic stubby profile and short lugs common to compressor-cased watches of the decade, yet this particular specimen appears exceptionally clean, retaining its original IWC crown—a reassuring indicator that the watch has neither endured a harsh working life nor undergone excessive over-polishing.
The primary selling point of this specific Aquatimer lies in the pristine condition of its dial, hands, and internal rotating bezel. Although IWC ultimately produced four distinct dial and bezel layouts, this iteration represents the earliest, purest form: a stark black bezel paired with a matching black dial. The tritium lume plots are particularly noteworthy, not only for their remarkably even aging across the dial and handset, but also because the hands show no evidence of cracking within the luminous material. While formal horological rankings for the most aesthetically pleasing watch hands do not officially exist, the distinctive paddle-ended seconds hand found on the IWC reference 812 easily deserves a spot near the upper echelon.
Although auction documentation often omits movement specifications, this reference is driven by the IWC caliber 8541, a stellar automatic movement featuring a Breguet overcoil, identical to the mechanisms utilized in the brand’s Ingenieur models of the same period. Regrettably, the watch does not arrive on its original steel bracelet, a minor detraction that may ultimately help keep the final purchase price slightly more approachable. Carrying a pre-sale estimate of €5,000 to €5,500, the watch heads to auction next Thursday in Spain.
Boucheron White Gold Carrée
The survey concludes with a true mystery piece from the historic jewelry house of Boucheron. While the brand’s rich heritage has been documented by horological historians, Boucheron timepieces remain largely understudied, making it notoriously difficult to establish direct comparisons or verify exact production details. Furthermore, Boucheron watches are fundamentally jewelry creations first and foremost; regardless of the mechanical competency packed inside their precious metal cases, they remain overwhelmingly style- and design-forward objects.
A prime example is a mid-1960s white gold Boucheron Carrée featuring a large, stylized, hand-painted letter "B" prominently positioned at the exact center of the dial. Encountering such an unusual watch naturally triggers a quest for comparable examples to confirm authenticity, a process fraught with ambiguity. Another Carrée in yellow gold featuring a matching dial style exists, though it is offered by the same specialized dealer. A single white gold Boucheron with an identical dial layout has surfaced elsewhere, yet it wasn’t until consulting leading authorities on the marque that a definitive comfort level regarding its authenticity could be established.
Setting aside the preamble, this is undeniably a captivating timepiece. Even looking past the unmissable hand-painted "B" at the dial’s core, the applied hour markers are exceptionally charming, highlighted by a bold Roman numeral XII at the top. The white gold case is remarkably diminutive, measuring just 24 by 28 millimeters, yet it remains unpolished and presents a crisp, highly refined appearance with clear caseback engravings. True to form for the period, this Carrée utilizes a clever strap-attachment mechanism similar to that found on the brand’s iconic Reflet models, featuring sliding metal bars that release from the top and bottom of the case.
Offered by High End Time with an asking price of $9,150, this timepiece represents the ultimate acquisition for collectors seeking absolute exclusivity—a watch with a near-zero probability of ever crossing paths with another on the wrist. There is an undeniable appeal to a creation that manages to effortlessly balance profound refinement with a distinct touch of handcrafted artistry.
