The vintage watch market continues to yield surprising discoveries, historical heavyweights, and occasional oddities for collectors with an eye for the unconventional. In this week’s edition of Hodinkee’s weekly watch-hunting column, the focus turns to a remarkable slate of pieces heading to the auction block or hitting the dealer market. From museum-worthy provenance straight out of the Breguet family to elusive jeweler timepieces and misunderstood chronographs, the latest crop of listings demonstrates just how broad and varied the vintage collecting landscape remains.
Before diving deep into the horological offerings, the wider world of collecting occasionally intersects with watch enthusiasm in unexpected ways. For those with an excess of disposable time and capital, the upcoming Julien’s Auctions event—titled, appropriately enough, "Paul Reubens’ Big Auction"—features a treasure trove of memorabilia from the late actor, best known as Pee-wee Herman. Among the eclectic lots crossing the block is a replica bicycle from Pee-wee’s Big Adventure, complete with a 2011 Visionary Spike TV Scream Award.
Meanwhile, looking back at previous market picks offers a helpful barometer for current valuations. The anticipated Orvis Solunagraph heads to auction shortly, while the LIP Mach 2000 makes its appearance. On the completed sales front, a Patek Philippe reference 5107 recently achieved €13,500, while a striking Omega Deville Emerald found a buyer at a modest $650.
For treasure hunters willing to dig through lesser-known platforms, the current slate of online catalogs offers plenty of diversions. A surprisingly charming 1960s-1970s world-time wristwatch from Invicta—a brand frequently dismissed in modern collecting circles—proves that vintage catalogs still hold surprises. Space enthusiasts will note the presence of astronaut Alan Bean’s personal Omega Speedmaster Professional reference BA 145.022-69, while a trio of non-running early electronic Wittnauers offers a project for the daring. Juvenia contributes a charming rose gold chronograph, and a triangular steel Zenith purse watch delivers an incredible dose of mid-century design quirkiness. Seiko fans tracking 6139 chronographs will find a pair of appealing 6139-6002 models making the rounds, and a remarkably clean, rectangular stainless steel Gübelin Ipso-Matic with triple-date and moonphase complications rounds out the secondary discoveries.
A Breguet Triple-Date Chronograph with Moon Phase
Stainless steel Breguet triple-date chronographs equipped with moon phase complications are far from common, though they are not completely mythical. Similar historical examples have made waves at major international auction houses over the years. Phillips offered a comparable piece in Geneva back in 2018, where it commanded CHF 131,250. Christie’s followed suit in subsequent years, selling one example for CHF 300,000 and another in 2022 for CHF 176,400.
What sets the currently listed example apart from those previous auction stars is not the pristine perfection of the dial—which does exhibit minor signs of aging—but rather its peerless provenance. This particular watch originates directly from the personal collection of Emmanuel Breguet, Vice President and Head of Patrimony at Montres Breguet, as well as a direct descendant of the legendary watchmaker and inventor of the tourbillon, Abraham-Louis Breguet. In terms of horological pedigree, securing a piece directly linked to the modern custodians of the brand’s heritage is nearly impossible to surpass.
While the ideal collector’s dream is always a flawless, unblemished dial, this timepiece requires a pragmatic appreciation of its flaws. The dial shows minor detractions, and the dauphine hands lack luminous material. However, the case remains in solid condition, retaining clear caseback engravings that underscore its authenticity. Because the watch carries such heavy historical weight, evaluating its financial worth becomes a complex philosophical exercise. Collectors will soon establish its market value when the watch goes under the hammer, carrying a pre-sale estimate ranging between €80,000 and €160,000.
LIP ‘Paul Newman’ Chronograph
The vintage French watchmaker LIP has long fascinated historians, particularly given the brand’s turbulent existential struggles during the 1970s. This background helps explain why tracking down rigid manufacturing consistency across certain models can be an elusive pursuit. A specific stainless steel LIP chronograph reference, often dubbed the brand’s ‘Paul Newman’ variant due to its exotic dial layout, was covered in depth by collectors back in 2017. However, the exact example currently appearing on the market does not neatly align with previously documented benchmarks.
Given the factory floor realities of LIP during a period of severe financial distress, it is safe to assume that watches were assembled using whatever components were available at the time, with little thought given to how future collectors would scrutinize minute typographical variations or hand configurations. Despite these historical anomalies, the watch possesses undeniable visual appeal.
The gold-plated case measures a wearable 36mm, featuring sharp, well-defined lugs and only a minor ding near the lower bezel between the five and six o’clock positions. The primary attraction, however, remains the sunburst silver dial and its contrasting registers. The running seconds subdial at nine o’clock and the LIP logo exhibit a slightly smudged aesthetic, suggesting a soft or uneven initial factory printing process. The black hand on the nine o’clock subdial departs from typical configurations, yet similar examples have surfaced in the wild and traded successfully among vintage enthusiasts. Powered by a Valjoux 7733 movement that currently requires mechanical attention due to a non-functioning chronograph complication, the watch offers a relatively straightforward restoration project for a competent watchmaker, given the ubiquity of the movement. Accompanied by a modest estimate, this conversation piece provides an accessible entry point into quirky 1970s chronograph collecting.
IWC Aquatimer Reference 812
As IWC’s contemporary catalog continues to feature the modern Aquatimer line, examining the vintage reference that started it all offers valuable context. Introduced in 1967, the Aquatimer reference 812 was IWC’s first dedicated dive watch, arriving slightly later in the mid-century dive watch boom but immediately matching the market standard with a robust 20-atmosphere water resistance rating.
Built around a classic EPSA-patented super compressor case measuring 37mm, the watch features the characteristic short, stubby lugs typical of the era. This specific specimen presents in exceptionally clean condition, retaining its original IWC signed crown, which serves as a reassuring indicator that the watch has neither suffered through an excessively brutal working life nor undergone heavy restorative over-polishing.
The true highlight of this Aquatimer is its remarkably well-preserved dial, handset, and internal rotating bezel. While IWC eventually produced four distinct dial and bezel variations, this execution represents the earliest and purest design: a stark black dial paired with a matching black internal bezel. The tritium luminous material has aged into a warm, uniform patina across both the dial plots and the broad hands, showing no major cracking or structural degradation. Topped off with a paddle-ended seconds hand that easily ranks among the most distinctive handset designs of the 1960s dive era, the watch is mechanically driven by the IWC caliber 8541. This legendary automatic movement features a Breguet overcoil and shares its mechanical DNA with the period-correct Ingenieur models. Although it lacks its original bracelet, the watch carries an estimate that reflects its desirability.
Boucheron White Gold Carrée
High-end jewelry houses stepping into the realm of watchmaking often produce pieces that blur the line between horology and haute joaillerie, and Boucheron is no exception. Mid-century Boucheron wristwatches remain relatively understudied by mainstream horological scholars, making them true mystery objects for collectors seeking something entirely off the beaten path.
A mid-1960s white gold Boucheron Carrée featuring a stylized, hand-painted letter ‘B’ right at the center of the dial presents an intriguing puzzle. Authenticating such rare jewelry watches often relies on cross-referencing sparse dealer archives and consulting specialized scholars. The design language, however, leans heavily into the artistic ethos of the period, prioritizing avant-garde style over pure tool-watch utility.
Beyond the prominent monogram dial, the watch showcases beautifully proportioned applied hour markers, anchored by a prominent Roman numeral XII at the top. The white gold case measures a delicate 24 by 28 millimeters, remaining unpolished with crisp caseback hallmarks. In typical Boucheron fashion, the watch utilizes a clever strap-attachment mechanism derived from their iconic Reflet line, featuring sliding posts that extend from the top and bottom of the case to secure the leather strap. Offered by dealers as a rare conversation piece, this white gold Carrée represents the ultimate expression of mid-century designer watchmaking, tailored for collectors who prioritize exclusivity and artistic flair above all else.
