Just days after presenting his highly anticipated spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection for Tom Ford, designer Haider Ackermann settled into his Paris office to unpack the creative vision behind his latest runway triumph. Speaking at length with Nicole Phelps, the designer offered a profound look into the ideas of desire, seduction, and personal freedom that shaped his newest creations, while also reflecting on his broader philosophy on life, art, and the fashion industry.
The conversation naturally gravitated toward the central themes of the spring 2027 collection: seduction and modern masculinity. In an era where cultural norms are constantly shifting, Ackermann observed a distinct evolution in how men present themselves to the world. "We’re living in a period where men are more vain than they have ever been before," Ackermann told Phelps, noting a cultural pivot toward self-expression and stylistic bravery. "And they’re embracing their feminine side. They’re more daring."
This fearless attitude was unmistakably present on the runway. Ackermann actively encouraged his models to project an undeniable sense of seduction toward the audience, urging them to exude joy and confidence as they walked. Yet, the designer was quick to clarify that this heightened sensuality was not designed merely to provoke or court controversy for its own sake. Instead, it was an exercise in liberation. "I am interested in taking risks and feeling free, certainly in a world where everything is more puritan and reserved," he explained, framing fashion as a vital antidote to contemporary rigidity.
Beyond the aesthetics of the runway, the conversation touched upon the deep personal connections that sustain Ackermann throughout his career. Phelps pointed out the devoted contingent of friends, long-time collaborators, and loyal customers who unfailingly turn out for every Ackermann presentation, a group famously anchored by actress Tilda Swinton. When asked about this enduring support system, Ackermann revealed a deeply romantic view of human relationships. "I do believe in loyalty," he reflected. "I’m very loyal to all my exes. I don’t know how to dis-love once I have loved."
This steadfast loyalty to the people in his life contrasts intriguingly with the designer’s profound need for solitude and disconnection from the fast-paced demands of the global fashion capital. Following the whirlwind of Paris Fashion Week, Ackermann was preparing to embark on a journey to Chile, where he planned to spend time kayaking amid remote glaciers. Known for traveling to the far corners of the earth, the designer harbors a particular affinity for isolated destinations where mobile phone service ceases to exist.
"It is perhaps in search of silence," Ackermann mused when discussing his love for the wilderness. "When you go very far away and lose yourself and feel so small against Mother Nature, you’re suddenly much closer to yourself." This retreat from the hyper-connected modern world provides a necessary counterbalance to the intense scrutiny and constant communication required of a major creative director operating at the pinnacle of the luxury fashion industry.
The broader landscape of Paris Fashion Week formed a vibrant backdrop to Ackermann’s reflections, capturing the excitement of a packed international schedule. Elsewhere during the bustling fashion season, producer Chelsea Daniel went inside the annual Americans in Paris dinner hosted by the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund alongside Chloe, celebrating emerging design talent and the enduring cultural bridge between American and French fashion capitals.
The week also delivered a rich tapestry of unforgettable runway presentations and cultural moments across the city. Reviewers and attendees closely followed the major spring 2027 collections from Givenchy, Celine—where whimsical cappuccino popsicles provided a delightful highlight for guests—and Azzedine Alaïa, alongside the distinct creative visions presented by Simone Rocha. Meanwhile, Miu Miu captured the cultural zeitgeist once again, generating widespread acclaim and fascination as actress Olivia Colman emerged as a breakout favorite on the runway, delighting audiences and cementing her status as everyone’s newest favorite model during a memorable Paris Fashion Week.
