Independent watchmaking powerhouse MB&F has consistently pushed the boundaries of mechanical creativity, mechanical sculpture, and avant-garde design. Even within a prolific year marked by the introduction of the HM12 "The Guardian" robot-and-watch combination, dynamic EVO updates to the Sequential Flyback chronograph and LM1, gem-set iterations of the SP One, and fresh M.A.D.Editions creations, the Geneva-based laboratory continues to surprise collectors. Rather than expanding production volume, Maximilian Büsser and his team are channeling their creative energy inward, resulting in deeply artisanal projects that bridge contemporary mechanical architecture with time-honored decorative crafts.
Just ahead of the holiday season, MB&F has unveiled one of its most mesmerizing releases to date: a specialized twist on the iconic Legacy Machine 101 series that infuses its distinctive, volumetric architecture with a heavy dose of high-end métiers d’art. Created in collaboration with master enamel painter Gabriel Colliard, the new LM101 Gabriel Colliard reimagines the collection through a vibrant, jungle-inspired lens, offering a limited series of watches that merge high horology with miniature fine art.
What We Know
The genesis of this collaboration lies in the unique artistic journey of Gabriel Colliard. After completing his formal studies in fine arts in Argentina, Colliard initially found his footing in the Swiss watch industry as a polisher. Seeking to master traditional decorative techniques, he later relocated to France to study enameling. His exceptional skill eventually led him into high-end enameling workshops, including a tenure at Patek Philippe, before he ultimately decided to strike out on his own as an independent artisan working from his private workshop.
The resulting MB&F LM101 Gabriel Colliard is structured as a strictly limited edition run of just 24 pieces in total. This production run is evenly divided among three distinct jungle-themed artistic designs. Each individual design centers around a specific animal motif paired with a dedicated color scheme: a striking red for the scarlet macaw, a deep blue for the playful monkey, and a rich green for the formidable crocodile.
To bring these vibrant scenes to life, Colliard utilizes the painstaking technique of cloisonné enamel. The process begins with thin gold wires that are meticulously bent and shaped by hand to outline the contours of the illustration, forming microscopic compartments known as cloisons. These compartments are then painstakingly filled with enamel pastes of varying colors and opacities before being fired in a kiln. Because different enamel compounds react uniquely to heat, Colliard carefully selects enamels with varying degrees of transparency and opacity to maximize visual depth and contrast once the dials emerge from the kiln.
This is an extraordinarily slow, deliberate process. MB&F has noted that producing the complete run of 24 artisanal dials will take at least two years, underscoring the intense labor and rarity associated with each individual timepiece.
Housing these miniature enamel masterpieces presented a unique technical challenge. The watches are built within a solid platinum version of the original LM101 case measuring 40mm in diameter and 16.55mm in thickness. Unlike a traditional watch dial, which is typically a flat plate with a central hole for hand posts, the LM101 architecture features a complex arrangement of multi-level openings. It incorporates cutouts for the time-display hands, the power-reserve indicator hand, and the dramatic arches of the suspended balance wheel and escapement assembly.
Because the dial plate is an integral structural component of the movement itself, adapting it for cloisonné enamel required immense precision. Notably, the aesthetic design of the balance bridge arches and the escapement assembly borrows heavily from the modern EVO iteration of the LM101—minus the skeletonized escape wheel—even while housed within the more classical proportions of the original LM101 case. Furthermore, the traditional sub-dials for the hours, minutes, and power reserve have been entirely removed. There are no printed markers or tracks anywhere on the dial surface, meaning wearers must rely on approximate reading, a design philosophy previously explored in MB&F’s collaborative LM101 projects with H. Moser & Cie.
Flipping the watch over reveals yet another layer of artistic embellishment. Colliard has hand-decorated the prominent ratchet wheel visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. This delicate engraving and finishing serves as a wonderful visual treat atop the proprietary movement co-developed by MB&F and legendary watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. The ratchet wheel is a particularly fitting canvas for decoration, given that this movement delivers an upgraded power reserve of 60 hours.
The LM101 Gabriel Colliard is limited to 24 watches worldwide, split equally into eight pieces for each of the three colorways, and carries a retail price of $131,000.
What We Think
These timepieces are, quite simply, breathtaking. While this is not MB&F’s first foray into pairing high artistic handcrafts with the Legacy Machine architecture—memorable past collaborations with master engraver Eddy Jaquet immediately come to mind—this release represents a stunning, maximalist execution of a classic model. The original ethos of the Legacy Machine collection was to pay tribute to the historical golden age of watchmaking through a contemporary, unconventional lens. Applying traditional cloisonné enamel dials to this mechanical playground feels like a natural, yet elevated, evolution of that concept.
If there is room for critique, it lies in the hardware chosen for the strap closure. The watch is fitted with an alligator leather strap secured by a stainless steel leaf-spring deployant buckle featuring a white gold cover. For a timepiece positioned at this rarified tier of haute horlogerie and pricing, utilizing steel and white gold rather than a solid platinum buckle feels like a curious compromise. Most serious collectors investing at this level would undoubtedly prefer a proper platinum cover to match the substantial weight and precious metal content of the case. While both are white-hued metals, a collector scrutinizing the subtle refractive shades of enamel on the dial is likely attuned to the subtle differences in warmth between the metals.
That minor detail aside, the watches are triumphs of independent design. The layered depth of the green crocodile execution is particularly mesmerizing, though all three renditions hold equal appeal—a rare feat when evaluating a multi-piece artistic series. Given the extremely limited production run, sightings of the LM101 Gabriel Colliard in the wild will be exceedingly rare, but seeing one grace a collector’s wrist remains a thrilling prospect for watch enthusiasts.
The Basics
Brand: MB&F
Model: LM101 Gabriel Colliard
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 16.55mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Color: Red, green, or blue cloisonné enamel
Indexes: None
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Alligator strap with matching stainless steel folding buckle with white gold cover
The Movement
Caliber: LM101 Caliber
Functions: Hours, minutes, power-reserve indicator
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 VpH (2.5 Hz)
Jewels: 23
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Cloisonné enamel ratchet wheel; Straumann double hairspring
Pricing & Availability
Price: $131,000
Availability: MB&F Retailers
Limited Edition: Yes, 24 pieces total (8 pieces per design)
