Sabato De Sarno, the Italian designer widely recognized for his high-profile tenure at the helm of Gucci, has officially been named the new creative director of Icicle. The Shanghai- and Paris-based luxury fashion house, celebrated globally for its clean, minimalist aesthetic and robust vertically integrated production model, has chosen De Sarno to guide its next chapter of design and global expansion.
In his new role, De Sarno will assume comprehensive oversight of the brand’s creative direction, steering women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections, accessories, and eyewear lines. Fashion enthusiasts and industry observers will not have to wait long to see his vision take shape on the runway, as his inaugural collection for Icicle is scheduled to debut for the Fall/Winter 2027 season. This major appointment marks a significant milestone for both the designer and the brand as they seek to merge high-end European design sensibilities with profound Chinese cultural roots.
Reflecting on the appointment, Ye Shouzeng, CEO and co-founder of Icicle, emphasized the long-term mission of the house. Since Icicle was founded in Shanghai almost 30 years ago by Ye Shouzeng and Shawna Tao, the company’s core ambition has consistently centered on reconnecting people with nature through enduring, thoughtful fashion. In a statement shared with industry publication Vogue Business, Ye explained that this vision can only truly be realized by bringing together world-class creative talent from around the globe alongside Icicle’s deep cultural heritage and industrial strength within China. The arrival of Sabato De Sarno marks a crucial and deliberate step forward in this strategic direction, signaling an era of cross-cultural creative synergy.
De Sarno brings a wealth of high-level luxury experience to Icicle. Most recently, he served as the creative director of Gucci, Kering’s largest brand, a high-profile position he held from January 2023 until February 2025. Prior to his leadership role at Gucci, De Sarno spent more than a decade at Valentino, steadily rising through the ranks to ultimately become fashion director, where he oversaw both men’s and women’s collections. His extensive background in luxury Italian houses began even earlier, starting at Dolce & Gabbana before he joined Valentino in 2009. This extensive pedigree in traditional European atelier craftsmanship makes him uniquely positioned to direct a brand that values material integrity and precision tailoring.
The appointment also arrives on the heels of De Sarno’s recent foray into design curation. Earlier this year, during Milan’s Salone del Mobile, the designer stepped into a curatorial role for "Insieme," an acclaimed exhibition at Piscina Cozzi organized in collaboration with the Italian edition of Vanity Fair. The project showcased original design objects crafted by 12 historic Italian artisanal companies, including the renowned Venetian high-end textile and interior furnishings house Rubelli, as well as historic luxury glassmaker Venini, which is globally celebrated for its Murano glass masterpieces. The building’s facade featured a striking installation created in partnership with French artist JR, consisting of powerful portraits of the 79 artisans who contributed to the project.
In a wide-ranging interview with Tiziana Cardini of Vogue Runway ahead of the exhibition’s official opening, De Sarno was asked about what his next professional move might be after departing his previous role at Gucci. Offering a candid glimpse into his career philosophy, he noted at the time that he was not looking for something big or small, but rather looking for the right place for himself. It appears that Icicle has proven to be precisely that environment, offering a platform aligned with his core artistic values.
Elaborating on his decision to join the brand, De Sarno shared that he has always maintained a deep fascination with design that extends far beyond the final retail product, taking a keen interest in everything from the origins of raw materials to the specialized craftsmanship that shapes them. He noted that he was immediately drawn to Icicle by the profound alignment between its corporate principles and his own personal creative philosophy. The concept of harmony between human beings and the natural world is an idea that Icicle has consistently explored for nearly three decades, and De Sarno expressed his belief that this philosophy feels more relevant and urgent today than ever before.
Icicle operates under the umbrella of the ICCF Group, a parent organization that also owns the historic French fashion label Carven. According to official corporate releases, Icicle’s operational and creative model is built around a distinct dual structure that bridges Paris and Shanghai. This bicultural approach supports a robust retail footprint of more than 200 stores worldwide, which includes high-profile flagship locations situated in global fashion hubs such as Beijing, Shanghai, and Paris.
Despite the arrival of a new creative director at the top of the hierarchy, continuity remains a priority for the brand. Bénédicte Laloux, who has successfully shaped Icicle’s womenswear creative identity and directed the Paris design studio since 2013, will remain with the company. Laloux will continue in her role as design director of the women’s show collection, working closely under the overarching creative direction of De Sarno to ensure the brand’s established design language harmonizes with its new leadership.
De Sarno’s appointment at Icicle also quietly re-establishes his professional connection with luxury conglomerate Kering, albeit on an indirect and limited basis. Earlier in the year, Kering CEO Luca de Meo announced that the group had secured a minority investment in Icicle. During the company’s Capital Markets Day in April, de Meo elaborated on the strategic rationale behind the move, explaining that the investment in Icicle was driven by a desire to feel more at home in China, establish meaningful partnerships with local peers who possess deep market insight, and open doors into the broader Chinese industrial and creative ecosystem.
This high-profile cross-border hiring trend is part of a broader, accelerating wave of collaborations between artistic directors who built their reputations at major European luxury houses and prominent Asian fashion and lifestyle companies. Over recent seasons, the luxury market has witnessed a significant realignment as top-tier Western talent takes on creative roles with Asian parent companies and brands. Notable examples include Francesco Risso collaborating with Fast Retailing-owned casualwear brand GU, Kim Jones joining Bosideng-owned label Areal, Kris Van Assche partnering with Chinese sportswear giant Anta, Daniel Fletcher taking the creative reins at Mithridate, and Clare Waight Keller joining forces with Uniqlo.
As Sabato De Sarno prepares to unveil his first collection for the house in the fall of 2027, the fashion industry will be watching closely to see how his refined European aesthetic merges with Icicle’s nearly thirty-year legacy of sustainable, nature-inspired, and vertically integrated luxury fashion.
