On a perfect fall evening this week, the dynamic heart of Paris’s Upper Marais played host to a vibrant and deeply emotional milestone in contemporary fashion. Billed simply as “A Bunch of Designers,” a new retail and creative initiative officially opened its doors to the public, offering a refreshing departure from the traditional conventions of the fashion calendar. Eschewing the fleeting spectacle of a standard runway show, the quiet transaction of a closed-door showroom, or the formal prestige of a competitive industry prize, the project stands as something altogether more grounded and intimate. It represents the culmination of a rigorous 12-month mentorship and development program organized by the AZ Academy, an institution founded as the creative brainchild of the late, beloved designer Alber Elbaz.
Located inside the popular concept space Heureux Les Curieux on the Rue du Pont aux Choux, the opening night drew a packed crowd of industry insiders, press, and eager fashion enthusiasts. The initiative was designed to bridge the often-impenetrable gap between emerging talent and the commercial marketplace, giving a carefully selected group of international designers the unique platform to produce their very first commercial capsule collections and sell them directly to the public during Paris Fashion Week.
For the organizers behind the scenes, the project embodies the core philosophy that defined Elbaz’s legendary career: a profound generosity toward young talent and an unwavering belief in human connection. Speaking above the hum of the opening night crowd, Patrick Ferrand, director of strategy and growth for fashion and accessories maisons at Richemont, reflected on the deeper mission of the academy and the pop-up exhibition.
“It’s our way of giving young creatives a chance to meet people who might fall in love with them—not just the industry, but clients too,” Ferrand explained, capturing the essence of an initiative aimed at fostering genuine relationships between creators and consumers rather than relying solely on the approval of traditional gatekeepers.
The road to this week’s public debut began earlier this year during Paris Haute Couture Week, when Richemont officially revealed the names of the inaugural graduating cohort of the AZ Academy program. Selected for their distinct creative visions and technical mastery, the first crop of graduates represents a truly global spectrum of contemporary design talent. The roster includes Brais Albor based in Milan, focusing on menswear; Caterina Moro from Rome, specializing in womenswear; Liwen Liang, working out of Jingdezhen and London, who creates innovative garments utilizing traditional Chinese porcelain techniques; Manon Marcelot from Paris, specializing in leather accessories; Merle Breuker from Germany, designing womenswear; and Sandra Jao from Tokyo, also focusing on womenswear. Each designer spent the past year refining their craft, navigating the complexities of production, and preparing for the moment their work would finally meet the retail market.
Stepping inside the Marais pop-up space, visitors were immediately greeted by a thoughtful curation that highlighted both the new graduates and the enduring legacy of the academy’s roots. Front and center stood a couple of striking silhouettes by Lutz Huelle, a former AZ Factory “Amigo,” ambassador, and mentor—serving almost as a godfather figure to the program and its participants. Huelle’s contribution, a sweater originally created 25 years ago, proved that visionary design is timeless, fitting seamlessly into this season’s broader industry currents favoring earthy hues and sophisticated ombré treatments.
For Huelle, the value of the AZ Academy lies in its practical, feet-on-the-ground approach to nurturing talent, steering clear of abstract mentorship or fleeting financial injections that often leave young designers unequipped for the realities of the market.
“What’s nice about this initiative is that it’s completely real,” Huelle noted during the opening event. “It’s always great to have prize money, but then how do you handle it? I like that there’s this spirit of transmission that offers grads real help and the means to actually become professional.”
Rather than functioning as a standard retail store where items simply hang silently on racks, the pop-up space at Heureux Les Curieux has been curated to educate and engage visitors by demystifying the creative process. In-store events and interactive installations are scheduled throughout the duration of the pop-up to spotlight the meticulous techniques employed by each designer. These programming elements range from traditional pattern-cutting and intricate embroidery demonstrations to specialized workshops, including a ceramic kintsugi workshop, innovative print design showcases, and masterclasses in leather goods making. By pulling back the curtain on how garments and accessories are actually constructed, the initiative encourages consumers to forge a deeper appreciation for the labor, time, and artistry invested in independent fashion.
The ghost of Alber Elbaz looms large over the entire enterprise, not merely as a founding inspiration, but as a living ethos. A striking portrait of the iconic designer hangs prominently in the window of the boutique, watching over the crowd of young creators, mentors, and shoppers. Elbaz, who passed away in 2021, left an indelible mark on the global fashion community through his warmth, inclusivity, and insistence that fashion should be about joy and human connection. When asked what Elbaz might have thought of the initiative and its tangible success in supporting the next generation, Ferrand offered a poignant reflection.
“My hope is that he’d have been proud of the continuity,” Ferrand said.
Inside the store, surrounded by the diverse collections of the academy’s first graduates, Elbaz’s most famous and guiding motto lives on, inscribed in the very fabric of the enterprise: “Love Brings Love.”
The “A Bunch of Designers” pop-up exhibition and boutique will remain open to the public at Heureux Les Curieux, located at 23 Rue du Pont aux Choux in the 3rd arrondissement of Paris, through October 17th.
