Two years after marking its entry into the fragrance space with the release of Retrospect, Merit is expanding its olfactory footprint today with the launch of its sophomore scent, New Wave.
While the brand’s debut perfume leaned into a fruitier, floral, and fresher profile, New Wave offers a marked departure. Borrowing its moniker from the avant-garde French cinema movement, the new fragrance is designed to be sensual, daring, deep, and bold. Retailing starting from $34, the launch represents a calculated step into richer, more complex scent territories for a brand best known for its minimalist approach to beauty.
Even traditional lovers of lighter, fresher compositions—who might typically steer clear of heavier gourmand profiles due to sensitivities or a preference for crisp florals—have found themselves surprised by the accessibility and nuance of the new formulation. Crafted by legendary master perfumer Dominique Ropion, the scent bridges the gap between commanding presence and subtle wearability, proving that boldness does not have to come at the expense of elegance.
What Is New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum?
Like its predecessor, New Wave is formulated as an extrait de parfum. This classification places it at a significantly higher fragrance concentration than traditional alternatives. While standard eau de toilettes typically feature a concentration of 5 to 15 percent, and eau de parfums hover around 15 to 20 percent, New Wave boasts a robust 30 percent fragrance concentration. This high concentration is a primary driver behind its exceptional longevity on the skin.
The creation of the fragrance involved meticulous craftsmanship and unusual raw materials. According to details shared by the formulation team, certain accords incorporated into New Wave were gleaned directly from authentic oak barrels previously used to age Cognac. This distinct aging process imparts an incredible richness and depth to the scent profile that sets it apart from standard commercial releases.
The olfactory journey begins with top notes of sharp pink pepper and angelica seed, which provide an initial crisp kick. This transitions into a lush floral heart featuring orange flower, ylang-ylang, and honey, adding a sweet yet sophisticated core. Finally, the fragrance settles into a complex base note composition blending rich musks, traditional incense, and deep woods. A subtle tobacco accord further rounds out the finish, introducing a warm smokiness without tipping the composition into dizziness or heaviness.
A Balance of Brightness and Sultriness
Upon initial application, the most prominent note to emerge is a rich vanilla, underscored by a subtle whisper of Cognac-soaked cedar. Thanks to the carefully balanced citrus and floral heart notes, the fragrance successfully walks the fine line between bright freshness and deep sultriness. The heavier base notes of musks and woods anchor the scent, while the peppery top notes inject a lively tingle that keeps the various profiles in motion rather than letting them sit heavily on the skin.
Crucially, the tobacco accord introduces a warm smokiness that avoids the cloying or dizzying qualities often associated with tobacco-forward perfumes. This careful orchestration prevents the scent from becoming overwhelmingly gourmand, ensuring that the fragrance maintains a vibrant, multidimensional character throughout its wear time.
True to the promise of its high extrait concentration, New Wave delivers exceptional performance regarding longevity. Much like Retrospect, the fragrance achieves a solid 12 hours of wear time without noticeable fade. Users applying the scent in the morning hours before a busy workday can routinely catch its lingering notes late into the evening, eliminating the need for midday touch-ups or reapplication.
The packaging itself serves as a distinct visual extension of the product’s artistic inspiration. Drawing cues from Surrealist art, the sculptural glass bottle features soft undulations and organic curves designed to mimic the movement of bobbing waves. The resulting design stands out as a uniquely tactile object, marrying the conceptual themes of the French New Wave cinema movement with functional vanity aesthetics.
The Bottom Line
The launch of New Wave marks a significant evolution for Merit’s fragrance category, offering consumers a sophisticated option that bridges the gap between high-impact presence and refined wearability. Its ability to command a room while retaining an underlying softness has quickly turned it into a fixture for those seeking a signature scent with genuine complexity and endurance. Whether worn for everyday professional settings or transported across continents for special formal events, the sophomore release demonstrates the brand’s growing confidence and mastery in the fine fragrance market.
