It has been a consequential month across the global sustainable fashion landscape, marked by high-profile protests, sweeping regulatory shifts, and stark reminders of the social and environmental challenges facing the industry. From climate demonstrations and executive fallout during Fashion Month to landmark European Union legislation and critical reports on living wages and land use, the industry continues to navigate a complex path toward accountability. Yet, the month’s developments also highlighted resilience and innovation, underscored by the financial rescue of pioneering circular denim brands and the expansion of eco-friendly retail initiatives.
US Fashion CEO Resigns After Physically Restraining Animal Rights Activists
The intersections of corporate leadership, activist pressure, and public relations came to a head following New York Fashion Week, resulting in the high-profile resignation of Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) CEO Steven Kolb. The executive stepped down in the wake of the event’s most viral moment, during which he physically restrained a protester from People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA).
The incident unfolded amid an ongoing wave of demonstrations organized by PETA targeting major industry players, most notably the H&M Group. The animal rights organization has intensified its campaign against the retail giant’s continued sourcing of wool following a comprehensive investigative report that uncovered severe animal welfare abuses at farms purportedly supplying the company. The fallout underscores a growing tension between industry leadership and activist groups demanding greater transparency and ethical accountability regarding animal-derived materials.
World’s Largest Fashion Brands Failing to Deliver on Living Wage Promises
While ethical pressures mount on the runway, systemic labor issues continue to plague the global supply chain. On the occasion of Living Wage Action Day, the Clean Clothes Campaign released the seventh edition of its living wage monitoring project, known as Fashion Checker.
The latest findings reveal a stark disconnect between corporate pledges and actual implementation. While an increasing number of fashion brands are publicly committing to the concept of a living wage, only a minute percentage are actively disclosing verifiable progress toward achieving that goal. Regional surveys of garment workers further illustrate the depth of the crisis, exposing massive gaps between official local minimum wages and true living wages. In Pakistan, for instance, the monitoring project found that garment workers continue to earn wages that fall 74% short of a basic living standard.
What Do the EU’s New Greenwashing Rules Mean for Fashion?
Regulatory landscapes are shifting rapidly to combat misleading environmental claims, most notably within the European Union. New greenwashing legislation officially took effect on September 27, introducing stringent standards designed to hold corporations accountable for their marketing language.
For the fashion sector, these regulations—commonly referred to as the "EmpCo" (Empowerment of Consumers for the Green Transition) rules—represent a major legal hurdle. The legislation enforces a comprehensive ban on the use of unsubstantiated, vague, and generic sustainability terms. Words and phrases such as "green," "eco-friendly," and similar catch-all descriptors can no longer be used by brands operating within the EU market unless they are backed by verifiable, publicly accessible evidence and independent certification.
SHEIN Quarterly Profit Falls 67% as Costs Jump, Europe Sales Slump
Ultra-fast fashion continues to face economic headwinds, as highlighted by financial results from market giant SHEIN. The company reported a 67% plunge in quarterly profit driven by a confluence of rising operational expenses, escalating freight costs, and regulatory adjustments concerning import duties.
According to reports from Reuters, these financial pressures have been compounded by a noticeable slump in sales across European markets. In response to the margin squeeze and shifting consumer and regulatory climates, the retailer is reportedly planning to diversify its offerings by introducing higher-priced brands to help plug the revenue gap.
Oxford Report Reveals Fashion Industry Influences Nearly a Third of Global Farmland
Environmental assessments of the fashion industry are expanding in scope, revealing an even larger footprint on the planet’s ecosystems than previously understood. A comprehensive new report released by the University of Oxford’s Smith School of Enterprise and the Environment, in partnership with DIRT Charity, has broadened traditional methodologies for measuring land management.
Historically, academic and corporate assessments of fashion’s land use focused primarily on cultivated crops such as cotton. The new assessment, however, encompasses the vast impacts associated with animal-derived materials, including wool and leather. When factoring in these supply chain elements, the report concludes that the global fashion industry influences nearly 30% of the Earth’s total farmland. Furthermore, the study attempts to bridge existing analytical gaps by evaluating the environmental profiles of next-generation alternative materials, such as mycelium-based leathers.
US Lawmaker Introduces ‘First-of-Its-Kind’ Textile Waste Bill
Legislative efforts to curb the mounting crisis of textile waste are also gaining traction in the United States. Congresswoman Chellie Pingree has introduced a federal bill aimed directly at reducing post-consumer and industrial textile waste on a national scale.
If passed, the legislation would implement enhanced data collection frameworks to track textile flows and establish structured support mechanisms to accelerate the transition toward circular economic models within the United States textile and apparel sectors.
Fashion’s Climate Déjà Vu
Against the backdrop of New York Climate Week, observers noted a recurring pattern in how the industry addresses environmental crises. Reporting on the event, Business of Fashion contributor Shayeza Walid observed that the headline-generating moments were dominated less by verifiable, ground-breaking climate achievements and more by the recurring establishment of new industry sustainability coalitions and organizational pledges. The critique points to a broader industry fatigue regarding administrative announcements over tangible, measurable emission reductions.
Mud Jeans is Back with New Owners
In more optimistic industry news, the circular denim sector has received a significant boost with the rescue of Mud Jeans. The highly rated, sustainability-focused Dutch denim brand had filed for bankruptcy in August, raising concerns over the viability of circular business models under financial duress.
According to industry reports, the company has successfully secured new shareholders and leadership, paving the way for a brand revival. The new owners have committed to maintaining the brand’s foundational commitment to circularity, emphasizing smaller production runs, a streamlined e-commerce strategy, and a more targeted product range to ensure long-term viability.
"Good" and "Great" News
Amid structural industry challenges, highly rated brands continue to pioneer retail concepts, material innovations, and creative milestones that demonstrate the commercial potential of ethical fashion.
Another Tomorrow, rated "Good" by independent assessment bodies, has initiated a five-month retail residency within the prestigious Galeries Lafayette department store in Paris. Developed in collaboration with renowned architect Patricia Urquiola, the pop-up space features a fully recyclable installation. The physical structure was fabricated by regenerated building materials manufacturer Cimento, utilizing mineral waste reclaimed from industrial quarry extraction combined with repurposed organic matter. The design also incorporates sustainably sourced wood and retail mannequins manufactured from bioresin.
In New York, top-rated gothic luxury brand SCATHED made its official runway debut during New York Fashion Week, showcasing its distinctive aesthetic to an international audience. Founder Aza Lethe reflected on the milestone, noting the growing market appetite for alternative high-end design rooted in independent craftsmanship and ethical production standards.
Meanwhile, sustainable material innovation continues to advance in the activewear sector. "Good"-rated brand PANGAIA has launched a new performance collection utilizing EVO by Fulgar, a 100% bio-based next-generation material derived from renewable feedstocks such as castor beans and industrial corn. Engineered to offer a lightweight feel, enhanced breathability, and advanced thermoregulation properties, the material reportedly dries significantly faster than traditional nylon and weighs less than conventional polyester, offering a lower-impact alternative to standard petroleum-based activewear fabrics.
