Picture this: It is 2017. The fashion landscape was a vastly different ecosystem, existing right on the precipice of the modern influencer boom and a profound shift in digital media consumption. Rodarte was showing on the runway, capturing the ethereal and romantic zeitgeist of the era, while the short-form video platform of the moment was Vine, a service that felt ubiquitous before its sudden and dramatic demise. In this peculiar cultural intersection, no one was quite as famous or culturally inescapable as Cameron Dallas. Long before TikTok algorithms dictated front-row invitations, Dallas was a pioneering social media celebrity who bridged the gap between internet fandom and high fashion. He was a regular fixture on the catwalk and a heavily photographed presence in the front row, serving as an early harbinger of the digital creator phenomenon that would soon completely dominate fashion week seating charts across New York, London, Milan, and Paris.
Reflecting on that period reveals just how much the industry’s aesthetic lexicon has evolved—and yet, how recognizable certain touchstones remain. Today, billionaire entrepreneur and reality television mogul Kylie Jenner might be thoroughly immersed in the understated elegance of the "quiet luxury" trend, favoring neutral palettes, minimalist silhouettes, and brand-name subtlety. But wind the clock back nearly a decade to New York Fashion Week, and a younger Jenner was making a major splash and dominating headlines in a beaded denim short set from Simkhai. It was a look that perfectly encapsulated the youthful, high-energy street style and youthful exuberance of mid-2010s fashion weeks, a time when maximalism and bold, branded statements still reigned supreme on the asphalt outside the tents.
Of course, any retrospective conversation about the catwalks of 2017 would be incomplete without acknowledging fashion’s favorite sister duo, Gigi and Bella Hadid. During the spring 2017 season, the Hadids made a rare and highly publicized joint appearance, walking out together in a breathtaking display of star power during Versace’s characteristically supermodel-stuffed spring runway show. It was a defining moment for the siblings, cementing their status as the dominant supermodels of their generation and offering a reminder of Donatella Versace’s unparalleled ability to command global attention by gathering the world’s most sought-after talent on a single runway. Looking back at moments like these naturally evokes a sense of intense nostalgia, prompting industry insiders and fashion enthusiasts alike to wonder where the time has gone and to fondly recall those particular glory days of the traditional fashion calendar.
As is always the case during fashion month, however, the real narrative of the season was written just as much in the chaotic energy off the runways as it was inside the tightly controlled presentation spaces. Milan attendees leaned heavily and unapologetically into Alessandro Michele’s kooky, eclectic, and aggressively colorful vision for Gucci, an aesthetic earthquake that completely redefined global menswear and womenswear for years. At the same time, independent designers like Molly Goddard were finding themselves in heavy rotation among top-tier stylists and editors, injecting a dose of whimsical, voluminous tulle into the street style ecosystem. Meanwhile, across the channel, London Fashion Week was all about the daring, rebellious tailoring of Christopher Kane—a reminder of British fashion’s distinct creative edge that naturally stirs up excitement for his upcoming collaborative and creative ventures, such as his much-anticipated show for Mulberry.
Amidst the whirlwind of shows, parties, and frantic outfit changes, the legendary street style photographer Phil Oh was busy documenting the spectacle for posterity, capturing the eccentricities of the era with his signature candid eye. Interestingly, the spring 2017 season played host to a bizarre technical anomaly in Oh’s illustrious archive: it marked the first and—as he firmly promises—the absolute last time he chose to shoot his iconic street style galleries entirely in a vertical format. When asked about this stylistic pivot years later, Oh candidly admits that he can no longer remember what possessed him to make the switch, attributing the decision to a forgotten whim of the past. Fortunately for purists and longtime fans of his work, he guarantees that vertical framing will never be making a return to his coverage.
Ultimately, diving into these archival snapshots offers a fascinating window into a pivotal transitional era for the industry. From the nascent days of creator culture and the peak of pre-pandemic fashion week excess to the unforgettable collections that defined a decade, the spring 2017 season remains a vibrant monument to a bygone era of style. As street style continues to evolve in response to changing digital landscapes and shifting global trends, taking a flashback look at those sun-drenched, flashbulb-heavy days provides both a comforting sense of nostalgia and a sharp reminder of how far fashion has traveled in the years since.
