Daniel Roth’s svelte time-only watch remains compact while gaining a striking new visual presence with the introduction of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt. While the latest release is primarily a cosmetic update to the collection, the combination of a deep black dial with traditional "gilt" markings creates a high-contrast aesthetic that is remarkably unusual for ultra-thin dress watches.
The formal and refined aesthetic presented on the front of the timepiece is seamlessly matched by the proprietary DR002 movement visible on the reverse. Developed and manufactured by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the DR002 is engineered and finished to an exceptionally high standard. This continues the overarching philosophy of the revived Daniel Roth brand, which has consistently aimed to recreate historic models from its archives while enhancing them with superior, in-house, and proprietary mechanical calibers.
Initial Thoughts
From a stylistic perspective, the Extra Plat is essentially a thoughtful remake, albeit one benefiting from subtle nips and tucks to its overall design language. These tweaks to the architecture are minimal yet deliberate, carefully preserving the proportions and character of the original vintage pieces. While this release does not represent a groundbreaking technical invention or an entirely new complication, it is undeniably handsome and intrinsically appealing to collectors of neo-classic independent watchmaking.
This specific iteration stands out as arguably the most visually compelling execution of the Extra Plat collection to date. The gold-on-black livery is exceptionally striking. Unlike earlier versions of the model that favored more conventional, muted colors, this release offers a much more powerful combination while steadfastly retaining its identity as a formal dress watch suitable for the most elegant occasions.
Moreover, the "gilt" dial itself is considerably more complex than a casual glance might suggest. The gleaming gold markings are not simply printed onto the surface; instead, they are formed by the solid gold dial base showing directly through the overlying black coating. This intricate manufacturing detail highlights the impressive production quality of Daniel Roth, and more specifically, the specialized capabilities of La Fabrique du Temps.
Priced at CHF 55,000 excluding local taxes, the Extra Plat occupies a competitive position in today’s high-end watch market. It commands a slightly lower price point than comparable time-only dress watches offered by many small-scale independent watchmakers, yet it matches them stride for stride in terms of artisanal craftsmanship and mechanical finishing quality.
Flat and Fine
Today’s Extra Plat sticks closely to the physical dimensions of the 1990s original, endowing it with the authentic proportions of a classic dress watch from that era. The case measures a modest 35.5 mm in width and 38.6 mm from lug to lug, standing just 7.7 mm high. These dimensions place it squarely within the ideal sizing parameters for a formal timepiece designed to slide effortlessly under a shirt cuff.
Though it sits remarkably low on the wrist with a footprint that can only be described as minimal, the high-contrast dial gives this reference significantly more visual punch than its counterparts with more understated dials. This starkly contrasts with alternatives like the platinum version released earlier in the year, which favored subtle shades of grey.
Like the other revival models launched under the modern Daniel Roth banner, the Extra Plat features a gently reworked case. The most noticeable evolution occurs at the lugs, which now curve downward more gracefully than the straight, angular lugs and sharp bases found on vintage iterations. The resulting silhouette is slightly sleeker, marrying historic charm with modern ergonomic sensibilities.
While a black-and-gold dial might seem atypical for the traditional Daniel Roth design vocabulary, the "gilt" finish has deep historical roots within the brand. The original Daniel Roth enterprise offered similar gilt-style dials across portions of its model range during the 1990s, making this modern interpretation a respectful nod to the past rather than a radical departure.
However, the execution of the "gilt" dial on this new reference relies on a far more elaborate manufacturing process than traditional historical techniques or simple gold printing on a black canvas.
The creation of the dial begins with a solid gold baseplate that is meticulously engine-turned by hand using a traditional straight-line engine. Once the delicate guilloche pattern is established, a red masking varnish is precisely printed onto the dial surface to map out the necessary tracks, numerals, and markings.
Following this masking step, the dial undergoes a series of electroplating baths to build up a rich layer of black material, resulting in a slightly glossy, deep black finish. Finally, the red masking varnish is chemically dissolved and removed, exposing the underlying solid gold baseplate. This exposed gold forms the brilliant, razor-sharp dial markings that catch the light from every angle.
Viewed from a distance, the finished product is virtually indistinguishable from traditional gold printing. However, under closer inspection through a loupe, the depth and refinement of the exposed gold against the recessed, guilloched black background become readily apparent. Combined with the matching solid gold hands, the face of the Extra Plat is both expensively produced and deeply alluring.
The same meticulous attention to detail holds true on the reverse side of the watch. While the original 1990s timepieces relied on a stock Frederic Piguet movement—which was undoubtedly high-end for its time and entirely fit for purpose—the modern Extra Plat houses the thoroughly contemporary Calibre DR002.
The DR002 is a straightforward manual-wind movement, yet it is executed to an exceptionally high standard. Its construction incorporates mechanical elements expected from top-tier movements in contemporary independent watchmaking, ranging from a precise free-sprung balance wheel to an elegantly sculpted linear winding click crafted from steel.
Similarly, the movement decoration is carried out with complete fidelity to classical watchmaking traditions, ensuring that every functional and aesthetic detail receives proper attention. The finishing encompasses sharp internal angles, polished countersinks for screws and jewel holes, and visible steel components finished to a pristine, mirrored black polish.
Overall, the Calibre DR002 matches the quality of time-only movements found in many of today’s most sought-after independent watchmaking creations, helping to justify the watch’s positioning and making its retail price remarkably digestible for collectors of high horology.
Key Facts and Price
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt
Ref. DBBD04A1
Diameter: 38.6 mm by 35.5 mm
Height: 7.7 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters
Movement: Calibre DR002
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours
Strap: Calfskin leather strap
Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at authorized Daniel Roth retailers
Price: CHF 55,000 excluding taxes
