Two years after introducing its inaugural fragrance, Retrospect, Merit is expanding its footprint in the beauty industry today with the launch of its sophomore scent, New Wave. While the brand’s first foray into perfumery leaned into fruity, floral, and fresh territories, New Wave—drawing its name from the daring French cinema movement of the mid-20th century—takes a distinctly sensual, deep, and bold approach. Priced starting at $34, the new launch brings an unexpected gourmand character to Merit’s minimalist beauty lineup, defying traditional expectations for a brand known primarily for understated everyday essentials.
For beauty enthusiasts who typically gravitate toward lighter profiles, New Wave presents an intriguing pivot. Fragrance lovers who generally avoid heavy gourmand options due to the risk of olfactory fatigue or headaches may find themselves surprised by the complexity of the formulation. Blended by legendary master perfumer Dominique Ropion, the scent manages to balance richness with approachability, offering a complex olfactory experience that lingers without overwhelming the senses.
What Is New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum?
Like its predecessor, New Wave is formulated as an extrait de parfum. This classification sets it apart from standard market offerings by featuring a significantly higher fragrance concentration. While a typical eau de toilette contains roughly 5 to 15 percent fragrance concentration, and an eau de parfum sits between 15 and 20 percent, New Wave boasts an intensive 30 percent concentration. This high oil concentration is designed to maximize both the depth of the notes and the longevity of the wear on the skin.
The creation of the fragrance involved unconventional methods. According to details shared by the development team, some of the specific accords used in New Wave were derived directly from authentic oak barrels previously utilized to age Cognac. This unusual step infuses the scent profile with an undeniable, sophisticated richness that grounds the sweeter elements of the formulation.
The architecture of the fragrance is built across distinct layers. The opening top notes feature a blend of sharp pink pepper and angelica seed, delivering an immediate, tingling kick that prevents the scent from leaning too heavily into cloying territory. At the heart of the fragrance are rich floral notes of orange flower and ylang-ylang, harmonized with a distinct honey accord. Finally, the base settles into a complex mixture of warm musks, deep incense, and rich woods, anchored by a subtle tobacco accord that adds a layer of smoky sophistication.
A Closer Look at the Scent Profile and Longevity
Upon initial application, the most prominent note to emerge is a rich vanilla, immediately complemented by the woody nuance of cedar infused with Cognac-soaked undertones. Thanks to the interplay of the bright citrus heart notes and the darker, heavier base of musks and woods, the fragrance strikes a careful balance between brightness and sultry depth. The inclusion of the tobacco accord introduces a subtle smokiness, yet it is rendered smoothly enough to avoid the dizzying qualities often associated with tobacco-forward perfumes. Meanwhile, the persistent peppery top notes provide a continuous vibrancy that keeps the entire profile dynamic.
True to the promise of its high concentration, New Wave delivers exceptional wear time. Mirroring the performance of Retrospect, the extrait de parfum provides a solid twelve hours of wear without significant fading. For individuals who maintain a low-maintenance beauty routine and prefer not to carry products for midday touch-ups, this extended longevity offers a practical advantage. A single application in the morning before heading to the office remains detectable on the skin late into the evening.
The physical presentation of the fragrance is equally deliberate. Drawing inspiration from Surrealist art history, the glass bottle features soft undulations and organic curves designed to mimic bobbing waves, serving as a visual nod to the fragrance’s namesake. The sculptural packaging stands out as a distinctive piece of vanity-top design, combining artistic sensibilities with functional luxury.
The Bottom Line on Merit’s New Sophomore Launch
The introduction of New Wave marks a significant step for Merit as it broadens its identity beyond simple, everyday cosmetics into more daring territory. The fragrance has already proven its versatility, serving as a preferred scent for formal occasions, such as black-tie events, and withstanding the demands of travel across long distances. For consumers seeking a bold, bright fragrance that commands attention while retaining an underlying softness, New Wave offers a compelling new option in the luxury fragrance market.
