It is a remarkably vast world out there, filled with seductive objects of desire that extend far beyond the traditional boundaries of horology. In the relentless pursuit of curating the finest finds for the weekly "What’s Selling Where" column, collectors and enthusiasts frequently encounter peripheral delights that demand attention. For those possessing an enviable surplus of both time and capital—coupled with a distinct scarcity of pop culture memorabilia—the market offers extraordinary diversions. Among the most notable is a comprehensive auction event featuring personal items from the estate of Paul Reubens, universally celebrated as Pee-wee Herman. Appropriately titled "Paul Reubens’ Big Auction" and hosted by Julien’s Auctions, the catalog includes a glittering array of cinematic history, headlined most famously by a replica bicycle from Pee-wee’s Big Adventure accompanied by its 2011 Visionary Spike TV Scream Award.
Looking back at the scoreboard from previous weekly selections, the auction calendar remains as active as ever. The anticipated Orvis Solunagraph is slated to cross the auction block, while the LIP Mach 2000 heads toward its final bidding moments. Recent high-profile sales demonstrated robust collector interest across disparate segments of the vintage market; a Patek Philippe reference 5107 achieved €13,500, while a striking Omega DeVille Emerald found a new home for a modest $650, proving that value and charm can still be found in equal measure across the vintage landscape.
The broader landscape of upcoming horological offerings presents an eclectic mix of hidden gems, blue-chip rarities, and mechanical curiosities. This week’s vintage diver selection introduces an unlikely contender from a brand that frequently serves as a punchline in modern collecting circles: Invicta. While contemporary iterations of the brand rarely capture the imagination of serious connoisseurs, Invicta’s vintage catalog can occasionally yield delightful surprises, such as an affordable world-time wristwatch from the 1960s or 1970s bearing reference 27177.
For space enthusiasts and chronograph aficionados, the market continues to surface historically significant pieces, including Alan Bean’s personal Omega Speedmaster Professional BA 145.022-69. Meanwhile, a trio of early electronic Wittnauers offers a restoration project for the adventurous collector, provided their definition of "fun" accommodates watches that are not currently running. A rose gold chronograph from Juvenia initially presents itself as one of the most charming discoveries of the week, only to be rivaled by an incredible Zenith purse watch housed in a triangular steel case, which effortlessly captures the top prize for sheer aesthetic charm.
Seiko enthusiasts—affectionately known in collector circles as "Pogue heads"—will find two distinct examples of the reference 6139-6002 available for bidding. While neither qualifies as a "true" Pogue in the strictest historical sense, both present wonderfully and promise immense enjoyment on the wrist. Finally, building upon previous coverage of circular Gubelin triple-date moonphase complications, an outrageously clean rectangular stainless steel iteration of a watch sharing the exact same complex machinery emerges as an irresistible temptation for any collector willing to pull the trigger.
A Breguet Triple-Date Chronograph with Moon Phase from Emmanuel Breguet’s Personal Collection
Stainless steel Breguet triple-date chronographs featuring a moon phase complication are not exceedingly common, though they are by no means entirely unknown to the market. A comparable example presented by Phillips during their Geneva Watch Auction in 2018 commanded an impressive CHF 131,250. Christie’s subsequently handled similar iterations, selling one in 2019 for CHF 300,000 and another in 2022 for CHF 176,400.
The profound distinction between those previous auction stars and the model currently coming to market via Interencheres lies entirely in its peerless provenance. Beyond minor dial imperfections shared by many vintage pieces of this era, this specific chronograph originates directly from the personal collection of Emmanuel Breguet himself. Serving as the Vice President and Head of Patrimony at Montres Breguet, and sharing a direct familial lineage with the legendary inventor of the tourbillon, Emmanuel Breguet imbues this timepiece with a pedigree that is virtually impossible to surpass in terms of horological significance.
While the absolute dream for any top-tier collector is a flawless, investment-grade example, this watch departs from that perfection. The dial exhibits minor flaws that, while not overwhelming, certainly represent a detraction for purists. Nevertheless, the sheer scarcity of the reference combined with its immaculate institutional and familial provenance creates a fascinating dichotomy, functioning much like the classic Rubin vase optical illusion where background and foreground compete for attention.
Beyond the dial and its unlumed dauphine hands, the steel case appears to be in remarkably solid condition, complemented by clear caseback engravings. Given the prominent emphasis placed on the watch’s illustrious lineage within the catalog description, evaluating its pure market value purely as a physical timepiece becomes a complex exercise. Quantifying the emotional and historical premium of owning "a Breguet’s Breguet" will be rigorously tested when the watch goes under the hammer, carrying a pre-sale estimate ranging between €80,000 and €160,000.
The LIP ‘Paul Newman’ Chronograph
This specific reference from the historic French watchmaker LIP was examined in considerable depth back in 2017, a fact that introduces both context and complication for anyone evaluating the example currently offered through Drouot. While prior analyses expertly mapped out the intricacies of the reference and its production history, the specific watch currently listed does not align neatly with previously documented collector benchmarks.
Navigating the nuances of LIP watches from this era requires acknowledging the brand’s profound existential struggles throughout the 1970s. During a period of corporate turbulence and shifting manufacturing realities, adhering to strict standardization across specific model marks was rarely a priority. It is safe to assume that this watch was assembled using whatever authentic parts were readily available on the workbench at the time, with absolutely zero foresight that decades later it would become the subject of intense collector scrutiny and horological journalism.
Setting aside the historical complexities of LIP’s manufacturing practices, the watch possesses undeniable aesthetic merit. The gold-plated case measures a wearable 36 millimeters and retains sharp, well-defined lugs, exhibiting only a minor ding along the bottom edge of the bezel between the five and six o’clock positions. The primary focal point, however, remains the dial and handset, which further compound the piece’s unique character. The running seconds subdial situated at the nine o’clock position and the associated LIP logo both display a slightly smudged appearance, suggesting an imprecise original printing process rather than modern damage.
The configuration of the hands also invites debate among specialists; while the black hand on the nine o’clock subdial diverges from traditional expectations, comparable examples with identical hand layouts have successfully traded hands in the vintage market. The correct blue hour and minute hands remain in stellar condition, while the chronograph seconds and minute hands have gracefully faded to a soft, pale orange hue. Powering the watch is a robust Valjoux 7733 movement which currently requires attention, as the chronograph mechanism is not functioning. Given the ubiquity of the movement, any competent watchmaker should be able to restore it to working order with relative ease. Scheduled to cross the auction block with a conservative and remarkably modest estimate of €500 to €800, this LIP chronograph offers an accessible entry point for vintage enthusiasts, alongside an even rarer LIP reference 765—effectively a Breitling in all but name—also available for consideration.
The IWC Aquatimer Reference 812
The enduring presence of the Aquatimer within IWC’s contemporary catalog naturally directs attention back to the historic reference that initiated the lineage in 1967. Beyond its historical importance as IWC’s inaugural dive watch, this specific reference 812 stands out purely on the strength of its timeless design. Constructed within a classic EPSA-engineered super compressor case from the 1960s, the watch shares its architectural DNA with many celebrated dive watches of the era, offering a visual language that inspired similar aesthetic triumphs from brands like Hamilton and Bulova.
With a water resistance rating of 20 ATM, the Aquatimer successfully competed against the leading professional dive instruments of its day. The 37-millimeter case features the characteristically stubby proportions and short lugs typical of compressor-cased watches, yet this particular example presents exceptionally well. The presence of the original IWC signed crown provides comforting reassurance that the watch has avoided both a punishing life in the elements and heavy, intrusive restoration work.
The definitive selling point of this Aquatimer, however, is its remarkably pure dial, handset, and internal rotating bezel configuration. While IWC eventually introduced four distinct dial and bezel layouts over the course of production, this represents the earliest and most desirable aesthetic: a stark black rotating bezel framing a matching black dial. The tritium lume deserves special recognition for its remarkably even aging across both the dial plots and the hands, showing an absence of cracks within the luminous material. While horology lacks an official ranking for the coolest watch hands ever manufactured, the distinctive paddle-ended seconds hand of the IWC reference 812 unquestionably deserves a position near the very top of the list.
Although the auction listing omits specific movement details, the watch is driven by the legendary IWC calibre 8541, an exceptional automatic movement featuring a Breguet overcoil that also powered the prestigious Ingenieur models of the same period. While the omission of its original steel bracelet is unfortunate, that detail may ultimately keep the hammer price within a more approachable threshold. Estimated between €5,000 and €5,500, the watch is set to be auctioned.
The Boucheron White Gold Carré
The weekly journey concludes with a true mystery piece from the historic jewelry house of Boucheron. While collectors familiar with the brand understand its unique standing in the pantheon of design-forward watchmaking, Boucheron timepieces remain vastly understudied, often making historical comparisons and authenticity verification an arduous detective task. At their core, Boucheron watches are unapologetically jewelry pieces first and horological instruments second, prioritizing avant-garde style and artistic expression above all else.
Consider a mid-1960s white gold Boucheron Carré distinguished by a bold, stylized, hand-painted white gold "B" emblazoned directly at the center of the dial. Encountering such an unusual piece naturally provokes skepticism, prompting the search for comparative examples as proof of authenticity. Navigating this trail proves challenging, though another Carré in yellow gold featuring a similar dial treatment appears within the inventory of the same specialist dealer. A third white gold reference discovered in Tokyo offers additional reassurance, though absolute confidence is only achieved when consulting leading scholars and authors on the subject who recognize and validate the rarity of these artistically rendered dials.
Setting aside the investigative preamble, the watch is an undeniably compelling object. Beyond the striking, impossible-to-ignore letter at the center of the dial, the applied hour markers—particularly the elongated "XII" positioned at the top—exhibit remarkable refinement. The case is diminutive, measuring a mere 24 by 28 millimeters, yet it is crafted from solid white gold, remains wonderfully unpolished, and features crystal-clear caseback engravings. In typical Boucheron fashion, this Carré utilizes a clever strap-attachment mechanism reminiscent of the iconic Reflet models of the era, where metal bars slide out from the top and bottom of the case to secure the strap.
Offered by High End Time with an asking price of $9,150, this timepiece represents the ultimate acquisition for a collector who values singularity above all else—someone seeking a wearable work of art that is vanishingly unlikely ever to be spotted on another wrist, marrying extraordinary mid-century refinement with a distinct touch of the artisan’s hand.
