Hublot is looking backward to move forward with the introduction of the Classic Fusion Tributo, a timepiece that directly channels the original 1980 design conceived by founder Carlo Crocco. Long before the brand became a household name synonymous with the oversized, avant-garde architecture of the Big Bang and other extravagant complications, Hublot’s identity was rooted in Italian elegance. Back then, Hublot was simply the name of a singular watch model produced by MDM Genève.
The new Classic Fusion Tributo revives that foundational chapter in watchmaking history. Encased in a refined 38 mm gold case, the Tributo carefully restores several key historic traits, most notably the signature 12-screw bezel that defined the earliest iterations of Crocco’s vision. Beneath its austere, minimalist dial, however, sits a modern, Zenith-derived automatic movement, trading the original quartz technology for mechanical autonomy while preserving the slim, low-profile silhouette that made the original design a timeless classic.
Initial Thoughts and Design Evolution
While contemporary Hublot is heavily defined by massive proportions and high-impact ceramic and sapphire constructions, the brand’s origins trace back to an aesthetic deeply aligned with la dolce vita under the Italian sun. The 1980 quartz-powered debut broke convention by pairing a luxurious precious metal case with a casual, utilitarian rubber strap—a configuration that was entirely unheard of at the time but quickly became a stroke of marketing and design genius.
The Classic Fusion Tributo pays direct homage to Carlo Crocco’s foundational blueprint. By embracing contemporary sizing standards and outfitting the watch with a competent automatic calibre sourced from sister brand Zenith, Hublot bridges the gap between vintage charm and modern wearability.
The collection is split into two distinct precious metal variants that offer contrasting aesthetic personalities. The yellow gold model stays remarkably close to the historic design language, utilizing a clean, lacquered black dial that mirrors the spirit of the 1980 original. Its white gold sibling, meanwhile, takes a more contemporary approach by incorporating a deep black onyx dial and blackened bezel screws, creating a high-contrast monochromatic look that nods to the ongoing resurgence of natural stone dials in modern horology.
This stone dial execution remains understated, aligning smoothly with the clean lines of the watch without feeling like a fleeting trend. However, natural stone presents distinct manufacturing challenges. Because drilling directly through stone risks cracking the fragile material, watchmakers must rely on adhesive appliqués for the markers and branding. Some purists may argue this alters the visual weight of the dial, resulting in applied logos and wordmarks that are slightly thinner and more rounded than those found on the Classic Fusion Original, a 2023 interpretation that drew from the same historical well.
Priced at US$30,900, the Tributo reflects a notable step up from the Classic Fusion Original. This pricing is justified in part by rising gold prices, the inclusion of an authentic stone dial on the white gold model, and the deployment of a high-end Zenith Elite movement. At this price point, the watch competes directly with other refined, compact gold timepieces on the market, such as the Gérald Genta Geneva. While both share identical 38 mm gold dimensions and similarly finished movements—with the Gérald Genta offering a marginally thinner profile—the Gérald Genta name carries a distinct brand cachet among vintage and independent collectors, whereas Hublot leans heavily into its own radical heritage.
A Historical Hublot Reimagined
This release marks another chapter in Hublot’s ongoing exploration of its own archives. The Classic Fusion Original arrived in 2023 with a plain black lacquered dial and the familiar rubber strap, yet it remained largely tethered to the constraints of the contemporary Classic Fusion collection. It featured the standard layout of six flush, H-shaped screws embedded into the bezel, leaving many collectors wanting a more faithful recreation of the 1980s aesthetic.
The Tributo corrects this by restoring the original configuration of 12 distinct bezel screws. Featuring slightly domed heads that project visibly above the surface of the bezel, these screws function as visual stand-ins for hour markers, giving the otherwise sparse dial a practical and aesthetically pleasing reference for reading the time.
While seemingly a minor structural adjustment, this change fundamentally alters the watch’s visual identity. It amplifies the maritime porthole inspiration that originally gave Hublot its name—derived from the French word for porthole. Furthermore, because Hublot originally existed as a watch model manufactured by MDM Genève rather than a standalone corporate entity, the Tributo proudly features the historic "MDM" signature printed cleanly at the six o’clock position on the dial, a detail conspicuously missing from the 2023 remake.
The inclusion of the MDM wordmark is a bold branding choice. In an era where modern luxury marketing typically favors streamlined, uniform messaging, displaying a defunct partner’s initials alongside the primary brand logo is unusual. Yet, it serves as an appealing historical touch that demonstrates Hublot’s confidence in its design heritage.
The two variants of the Tributo also diverge in their surface finishes. The yellow gold model features contrasting brushed surfaces on its bezel and polished finishes across the case, creating a subtle, two-tone visual effect depending on the lighting angle. Conversely, the white gold variant relies on an entirely polished finish, which accentuates the high-contrast appearance of the blackened bezel screws against the gleaming precious metal.
Quartz No More
The most substantial mechanical evolution of the Tributo lies deep within the case. Hublot has equipped the watch with the caliber HUB1710, an iteration of the venerable Zenith Elite movement platform. Over recent years, LVMH has increasingly utilized the Elite movement across its high-end marques, leveraging its robust architecture and thin profile for sophisticated, dressier timepieces.
Originally introduced in the mid-1990s, the Elite movement remains ideally suited for watches of this scale. Measuring just 3.7 mm thick, its slim profile allows an automatic mechanical movement to replace quartz architecture without inflating the thickness of the case, thereby preserving the sleek, low-profile character that defined Carlo Crocco’s original creation.
This automatic caliber represents a significant upgrade over the ETA 2892 movement selected for the 2023 Classic Fusion Original. Beyond offering an extended power reserve and enhanced component decoration, the Zenith Elite features a more refined technical construction, including a Triovis regulator in place of an Etachron system. As an in-group movement shared among select luxury houses, it also avoids the ubiquity of standard third-party ébauches.
In keeping with treatments seen on other high-end LVMH releases, the finishing on the HUB1710 is elevated well beyond standard industrial executions. Attractively brushed bridges and anthracite-treated components—including a darkened balance wheel—lend the movement an appealing, monochromatic aesthetic that can be admired directly through the sapphire display case back.
Key Facts and Price
Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo
Ref. 262.VX.1130.RX.MDM (Yellow gold)
Ref. 262.WX.6870.RX.MDM (White gold)
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 9.5 mm
Material: 18k white or yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: HUB1710
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours
Strap: Rubber strap equipped with a titanium folding buckle
Limited edition: No
Availability: Available through official Hublot boutiques and authorized retailers
Price: US$30,900 excluding taxes
