Atelier de Chronométrie, the independent watchmaking atelier based in the principality of Andorra, has officially expanded its portfolio with the introduction of its very first dual-register chronograph, the ADC16. This latest release follows the brand’s widely lauded and critically acclaimed three-register rattrapantes, arriving as a unique, gilt-dialed commission that relies upon a heavily modified and elevated historical base: the legendary Valjoux 23 movement.
True to the atelier’s established identity, the historical calibre has been subjected to a complete architectural reimagining. This comprehensive overhaul features an entirely new bridge design, a bespoke assortment, an instantaneous minutes counter, and a level of hand-finishing that places the movement in a category of its own. Furthermore, because personalization and total bespoke customisation form the core philosophy of Atelier de Chronométrie, virtually every visual and mechanical element of the watch can be tailored to the exact preferences of the client commissioning the piece.
Initial Thoughts
Specializing in bespoke, vintage-inspired timepieces that balance classical aesthetics with substantial, tangible hand-craftsmanship, Atelier de Chronométrie has steadily built a reputation among high-end collectors for uncompromising quality. The brand’s debut chronograph, the AdC8 Split-Seconds Chronograph launched in 2020, was nothing short of sensational upon its release, setting a high benchmark for independent vintage-styled complications. Now, with the arrival of its first simple chronograph, the brand demonstrates an ambition that matches its previous triumphs.
The practice of sourcing, restoring, and refinishing decades-old chronograph movements is far from a novel concept within contemporary independent watchmaking. At times, the market can give the impression of an almost endless supply of new-old-stock Valjoux and Venus chronograph blanks waiting to be rescued. However, Atelier de Chronométrie approaches this practice differently by doing far more than simply cleaning up and polishing an old caliber. The atelier substantially transforms the historical architecture to a degree that is genuinely uncommon in the industry, engineering its own redesigned bridges, manufacturing its own bespoke balance wheel, and replacing the stock semi-instantaneous minutes counter with a complex, highly desirable instantaneous mechanism.
Naturally, these extensive, labor-intensive upgrades come at a significant financial cost. With a starting retail price hovering around €140,000, the AdC16 dual-register chronograph commands a price point substantially higher than comparable production models from luxury heavyweights such as Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne. Those established Maisons often offer timepieces equipped with entirely in-house, highly innovative, modern calibres for considerably less.
However, neither Patek Philippe nor A. Lange & Söhne accommodates individual client customisation to the degree practiced by Atelier de Chronométrie. This exact point represents the brand’s primary value proposition. It offers serious collectors a rare opportunity to commission a truly one-of-a-kind, vintage-inspired dual-register chronograph that is designed from the ground up to meet modern expectations of micro-engineering and hand-finishing.
Movement Glow Up
While Atelier de Chronométrie has lavished the movement with exquisite decoration, the brand understands that ornamentation alone does not inherently create a great watch movement. Much like frosting cannot redeem a poorly baked cake, frivolous decoration—no matter how finely executed by hand—remains superficial if the underlying mechanics are flawed.
Fortunately, the Valjoux 23 is already a celebrated and robust construction, and the atelier has implemented a series of smart, deeply considered upgrades for its new Calibre S440 that elevate the architecture even further. One notable improvement addresses the friction-fit chronograph driving wheel that historically detracted from the efficiency and clean operation of many vintage chronographs, a limitation that has challenged watchmakers for generations.
Historically, legendary manufactures like Patek Philippe addressed this technical hurdle on their own Valjoux-derived movements by splitting the combined escape and fourth wheel bridge into two separate, dedicated components. This allowed them to tuck the chronograph driving wheel neatly underneath the fourth wheel bridge, isolating functions and improving power transmission.
In a similar fashion, Atelier de Chronométrie has split the Valjoux 23’s combined escape and fourth wheel bridge into two distinct pieces, though it stops short of replicating the full bridge architecture found in Patek Philippe’s contemporary manually wound chronographs. Beyond this, the atelier has completely reshaped several other critical components within the gear train, including the intricately sculpted clutch bridge.
The incorporation of an instantaneous minutes counter represents another major technical departure from the original Valjoux 23 architecture. According to horological historian François LeCoultre in his seminal work A Guide to Complicated Watches, watchmakers of earlier eras frequently regarded instantaneous jumping mechanisms with a degree of skepticism. This caution stemmed from the high parasitic friction that occurs if the components are not exceptionally well-designed and meticulously fabricated, which is precisely why true instantaneous counters largely disappeared from pocket watches and early wristwatches.
That trend shifted definitively when A. Lange & Söhne successfully resurrected the complication with the introduction of the Datograph in 1999. The secret to a successful instantaneous jump lies in a light, precise touch. Patek Philippe pioneered the use of a dedicated hairspring for this specific purpose, successfully minimizing the contact area between the finger and the counter cam.
Since then, the instantaneous minutes counter has firmly established itself as a darling of the ultra-high-end watchmaking segment. It even seemed poised to break into a more accessible market space at one point through the ill-fated Eterna Calibre 39 project, though that initiative never reached its full potential.
The movement finishing applied to the Calibre S440 is just as lavish as anything seen on the brand’s previous high-complication chronographs. Thick, lustrous anglage with expertly rounded internal and external angles outlines the frosted, palladium-plated bridges. Many of these bridges are entirely new components manufactured in-house by the atelier.
The divided chronograph seconds and minutes totalizer bridges are perhaps the most visually striking departures from the donor movement. While this alteration completely obscures the traditional vintage architecture, it purposefully reveals the friction spring for the sweep seconds hand, a component that is normally hidden away beneath the classic horseshoe-shaped bridge of an unmodified Valjoux.
Further elevating the movement, the balance wheel is an entirely original creation by Atelier de Chronométrie. It is machined from beryllium copper (BeCu) and fitted with 18k rose gold timing weights and platinum inertia screws. This bespoke regulating organ is supplemented by a black-polished micrometric regulator, a blued overcoil hairspring, and the addition of modern shock protection systems. Together, these elements round out a decidedly high-end assortment that easily distinguishes the atelier’s interpretation of the Valjoux 23 from any standard vintage restoration.
Calatrava-Inspired Case
In keeping with the signature design language of Atelier de Chronométrie, the case draws direct inspiration from the classic Calatrava style of the mid-20th century. In this particular two-tone configuration, the watch features a robust stainless steel midcase paired with a bezel, chronograph pushers, crown, and case back crafted entirely from solid 18k yellow gold.
While the brand’s previous chronographs famously featured elegant teardrop-shaped lugs that accentuated the intricate case polishing, the Calatrava-esque lug architecture of the ADC16 offers a more understated, timeless profile. Though these straighter lug forms may not display the high-polish finish quite as dramatically as teardrop lugs, the exact same meticulous attention to detail remains abundantly evident across every surface. This dedication to hand-craftsmanship is further demonstrated in the two-tone "beads of rice" metal bracelet, which is painstakingly constructed by hand in-house.
Timepieces like the ADC16 offer collectors the unmistakable charm, warmth, and romanticism that draw enthusiasts toward vintage watches in the first place, but without the inherent compromises. Modern owners benefit from contemporary conveniences such as a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and significantly improved moisture resistance. Furthermore, a newly manufactured bespoke watch naturally offers a pristine, factory-fresh condition that is practically impossible to find within the vintage market.
Moreover, contemporary independent watchmakers like Atelier de Chronométrie provide a level of movement finishing and hand-decoration that was entirely unheard of when the original Valjoux base calibre first left the factory decades ago. This synthesis of historical mechanical pedigree and modern artisanal finishing creates a compelling bridge between eras.
A Traditional Gilt Dial
Unambiguously vintage in its inspiration, the dial of the ADC16 takes its aesthetic cues from one of the classic configurations of the historic Vacheron Constantin reference 4072. True to form, Atelier de Chronométrie produces its gilt dials using traditional, old-world techniques rather than modern shortcuts.
The process begins by printing the desired dial markings onto a raw metal base to act as a protective mask. The entire base is then galvanised in a deep black finish. Afterward, the protective mask is carefully removed, exposing the raw gold underneath to form the brilliant gilt typography and minute tracks.
This is the exact same historical methodology recently utilized by high-end brands for specialized releases, such as the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Gilt. When examined closely under a loupe, the resulting aesthetic is profoundly different from standard modern gilt dials, which are typically produced via simple pad-printing using gold-tone ink.
All five hands on the dial are manufactured entirely in-house from solid 18k yellow gold. This includes the central sweep seconds hand, a component that many watchmakers routinely craft from blued or polished steel simply to save weight. The hands possess a substantial profile with a noticeable, three-dimensional depth, though they are styled differently from the sweeping leaf hands the brand typically utilizes for its time-only models.
Of course, none of these specific aesthetic details are permanently fixed. Because Atelier de Chronométrie operates on a commission basis, the brand works closely with individual collectors to finalize the design of the dial layout, hand styles, and case materials. Two additional unique commissions based on this new platform are slated to be unveiled shortly, with several more projects already deep in development at the Andorran workshop.
Key Facts and Price
Atelier de Chronométrie ADC16
Diameter: 36 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Unavailable
Movement: Calibre S440
Features: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 52 hours
Strap: Two-tone beads of rice bracelet, accompanied by an additional black leather strap with a stainless steel pin buckle
Limited edition: Unique piece in each customized configuration
Availability: Available direct from Atelier de Chronométrie
Price: €140,000 to €150,000, depending on client customisations
