Independent watchmaking has experienced a remarkable renaissance over the past decade, driven by young, highly skilled artisans who are breathing new life into traditional horology. Among the most celebrated duos leading this movement are Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. Following a series of acclaimed releases that have already earned them prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) accolades, the independent watchmakers have once again captured the attention of the horological world. Debuting concurrently with the IAMWATCH fair in Singapore, Petermann Bédat has officially announced its latest masterpiece: the Reference 2914, a stunning 36.5mm monopusher chronograph powered by a brand-new, ground-up in-house caliber.
For a small independent operation, developing a completely new movement two years in a row represents an extraordinary logistical and technical triumph. Crafting a chronograph caliber from scratch is widely regarded as one of the most formidable challenges in the entire discipline of watchmaking, requiring meticulous engineering, precise tolerances, and immense patience. With the introduction of the Reference 2914, Petermann Bédat has not only met this challenge but has also further refined the distinct design language that has come to define their burgeoning brand history.
What We Know
The journey of Petermann Bédat has been marked by a thoughtful evolution in aesthetic and mechanical philosophy. The brand first established its reputation with the inaugural 1967 Dead-beat Seconds and the subsequent Reference 2941 Split-Seconds chronograph. Those early timepieces featured semi-open sector dials that offered a captivating glimpse into the mainplate and the intricate mechanics of the chronograph works. They diverged slightly from this formula with last year’s three-hand release, which maintained the signature sector layout but opted for a more traditional, closed dial configuration.
The new Reference 2914 bridges these distinct eras, serving as a more refined distillation of their early chronograph designs. It boasts significantly improved dial legibility, complemented by elegant solid gold applied indexes that match the tone of the hands. The visual presentation balances modern independent watchmaking sensibilities with a deep respect for vintage proportion and classic horological artistry.
One of the most striking characteristics of the Reference 2914 is its remarkably compact footprint. Housed in a platinum case, the watch measures a modest 36.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.6mm, which reduces to just 9.9mm when excluding the box-shaped sapphire crystal. This deliberate sizing harks back to the golden era of vintage chronographs, offering wrist presence that favors timeless elegance over contemporary oversized trends.
Beating inside this platinum vessel is the newly developed, fully in-house Caliber 234. Measuring 30mm across, the movement operates at a vintage-inspired frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and delivers a robust power reserve of 56 hours. The movement architecture incorporates subtle nods to historic watchmaking greats, such as the distinctive hook, whip, or devil’s tail-shaped terminal on one of the chronograph levers—a visual flourish reminiscent of the iconic arrows found on vintage Minerva chronographs.
However, whatever genealogical ties the movement shares with the past have been elevated through modern execution, pushed to the absolute extreme of contemporary finishing and construction standards. Given that both founders are alumni of A. Lange & Söhne, it comes as no surprise that the plates and bridges are meticulously crafted from German silver. The bridges are adorned with traditional Côtes de Genève stripes and feature immaculate, hand-polished chamfers. Meanwhile, the mainplate showcases a sophisticated combination of soleil brushing and perlage.
Every component has received an extraordinary level of attention. The steel parts are subjected to black-polishing alongside hand-bevelling and chamfering. The wheels feature circular graining, a treatment that is identically mirrored on the balance assembly, while the barrel and ratchet wheel are decorated with traditional snailed patterns. Even the fingers for the chronograph arms appear delicately frosted, showcasing an obsessive dedication to artisanal finishing.
Because of the sheer intensity of labor required to hand-finish each movement and case, production capacity is strictly constrained. The initial run of the Reference 2914 in platinum will be limited to just 20 pieces. Reflecting the immense craftsmanship and independent spirit poured into the project, the watch carries a retail price of CHF 180,000 and is available for purchase through the brand’s authorized retail partners.
What We Think
Conversations with Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat reveal a quiet confidence that matches the exceptional quality of their physical output. There has never been any serious doubt that the duo is producing some of the most compelling timepieces in the independent sector today. Their previous GPHG awards stand as concrete validation of their technical prowess and design vision. While their distinct design language takes time to fully appreciate, seeing them return to the complex arena of chronograph design is a welcome development for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
From a purely mechanical and artistic standpoint, the movement design and finishing leave virtually no room for criticism. The level of craftsmanship on display is undeniably world-class. Discussions surrounding the pricing of independent watchmaking inevitably draw comparisons—such as how collectors measure contemporary indie chronographs against creations like Rexhep Rexhepi’s RRCHF, which commands a lower price point. Even so, given the staggering amount of hand-craftsmanship, traditional techniques, and low-volume production involved, the price point reflects the true cost of uncompromised independent watchmaking quality. The Reference 2914 is a triumph of persistence and artistry, signaling an exciting chapter ahead for Petermann Bédat.
The Basics
Brand: Petermann Bédat
Model: Reference 2914 Monopusher Chronograph
Diameter: 36.5mm
Thickness: 11.6mm with the crystal; 9.9mm without measuring the crystal
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Color: Stainless steel and sapphire semi-transparent dial
Indexes: Solid gold applied indices
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator, 18mm lug width tapering to 14mm
The Movement
Caliber: In-house caliber 234
Functions: Hours, minutes, chronograph with instantaneous minute counter
Diameter: 30mm
Power Reserve: 56 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 vph
Jewels: 21
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Extensive hand finishing
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 180,000
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Yes, 20 pieces in platinum, with potential future iterations to follow.
