British independent watchmaking phenomenon Studio Underd0g has built its formidable reputation on playfulness, vibrant color palettes, and unconventional design. Since its inception, the microbrand has captured the attention of horological enthusiasts worldwide primarily through distinct three-handers and chronographs. This journey began with the Seagull-powered 01Series chronographs, followed by the distinctive sapphire-and-screw-dialed 02Series field watches, and later expanded into the monopusher 03Series powered by Sellita movements. Now, the brand is branching out into more classically inspired territory with its very first calendar complication, introducing the brand-new 04Series.
Priced at $1,100, the 04Series marks a significant milestone for Studio Underd0g by packaging a moonphase, a retrograde pointer date, and a weekend indicator into a single timepiece. Achieving this array of complications at an accessible price point required a continuation of the brand’s successful partnership with Chinese movement manufacturer Seagull. Together, they developed a brand-new proprietary movement specifically for this collection: the Seagull Automatic ST-2115B.
Operating at a modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), the caliber offers a dependable power reserve of 42 hours and is rated to an accuracy of -10 to +15 seconds per day. Functionality and interaction have been thoughtfully integrated into the case design. The retrograde pointer date is adjusted via a discreet, recessed pusher positioned above the crown at the two o’clock mark. Similarly, the moonphase display can be easily adjusted using a recessed pusher located at seven o’clock, while the weekend indicator is seamlessly managed directly through the winding crown.
The architectural foundation of the 04Series is housed in a refined, Calatrava-style stainless steel silhouette. In an interesting move for a new collection, Studio Underd0g is offering the watch in two distinct sizes: a compact 37mm and a slightly larger 38.5mm variant. Interestingly, both case sizes maintain an identical lug-to-lug measurement of 44.5mm. The visual distinction between the two sizes lies primarily in their proportions, with the larger 38.5mm model featuring a slightly thicker bezel and stubbier lugs, catering to varied wrist sizes and preferences without altering the core wearability.
Both versions share a case thickness of 13.5mm—though this measures down to a slimmer 10.5mm if you exclude the crystal—and offer a practical water resistance of 50 meters. True to the brand’s identity, the dials deliver a burst of personality, though they are executed with a slightly more conservative restraint compared to past releases. The collection debuts with four distinct colorways.
The "Cloud10" features an eye-catching blend of periwinkle and bright red, while "Arabian Sky" pairs soothing shades of green with a golden-hued dial. "Shepherd’s Delight" leans into a rich cherry red dial accented by subtle hints of purple and lilac, and "0vercast" embraces a striking, Halloween-appropriate mix of orange and yellow set against a dark grey backdrop. The weekend display is showcased through apertures that are CNC-machined directly into the dial, separated from the retrograde pointer date’s hand by a cleanly printed railroad track minute scale.
Continuing its commitment to high-quality accessories, Studio Underd0g has once again partnered with British strapmaker The Strap Tailor. Each watch is paired with a custom-colored leather strap designed specifically to complement the unique palette of its respective dial. The 04Series will not be produced as a limited edition and will become available for purchase directly through the Studio Underd0g website starting November 17th.
What We Think
For an independent brand renowned for pushing design boundaries, stepping into the realm of traditional calendar complications represents a calculated and welcome evolution. Collaborating with Seagull to develop a custom caliber tailored to these specific functions demonstrates Studio Underd0g’s growing maturity as a watchmaker.
Horological observers will likely notice a fascinating mechanical parallel in the weekend display, which immediately recalls Krayon’s innovative caliber for the Anyday. That high-end timepiece broke ground by laying out an entire month with a combined weekend and weekday display, earning the self-proclaimed title of the first mechanical planner watch to cover an entire month at a glance. While the Anyday and the Studio Underd0g 04Series occupy vastly different tiers of watchmaking and pricing, the shared conceptual DNA of pairing a pointer date with a weekend-focused indicator is a compelling talking point.
While Studio Underd0g has historically defined itself through avant-garde, contemporary takes on classic forms, the 04Series feels remarkably anchored in traditional watchmaking codes. This tonal shift is likely intentional, offering a more subdued aesthetic that will appeal to a broader audience that may have found previous field watches too loud, all while retaining the signature color theory that anchors the brand’s identity.
Ultimately, the true test of the 04Series will lie in its tactile execution. While the pricing is undeniably attractive for a mechanical calendar complication featuring a retrograde pointer date, the overall tactile experience—specifically how setting and interacting with the mechanism feels in person, alongside the overall fit and finish of the new Seagull caliber—will determine how this ambitious new chapter resonates with collectors.
The Basics
Brand: Studio Underd0g
Model: 04SERIES Calendar
Reference Number: 04CLCH (Cloud10); 04ASEM (Arabian Sky); 04SDNA (Shepherd’s Delight); 04OVCA (0Vercast)
Diameter: 37mm or 38.5mm
Thickness: 13.5mm (10.5mm excluding crystal)
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Various
Indexes: Printed
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 5 ATM
Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap made by The Strap Tailor
The Movement
Caliber: Seagull Automatic ST-2115B for Studio Underd0g
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde pointer date, weekend indicator, moonphase display
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Rated at -10/+15 seconds per day
Pricing & Availability
Price: $1,100
Availability: Studio Underd0g, from November 17th
Limited Edition: No
