This afternoon, the 41st International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories in Hyères, France, officially announced its highly anticipated winners, marking a historic turning point for the legendary event. Shanghai-based designer Yui Chen took home the prestigious Grand Prize for "Food Cover," a women’s wear-leaning unisex lineup that she described as a personal method of preserving childhood memories. Developed in collaboration with Montex, Chen’s striking silhouettes cleverly combined everyday pieces—such as a vibrant yellow lingerie dress—with collapsible overlayers, including tent-like structures in transparent lace and intricate cages crafted from leather bows.
During her showroom presentation, the designer detailed her meticulous creative process, explaining how she models every single piece in miniature at least once before constructing the actual garments. Among her standout designs was an eight-paneled sheath dress fashioned from recycled leather that folds entirely flat, much like an accordion. Reflecting on her overarching artistic vision, Chen shared her aspirations with Vogue, noting that fashion represents the most vivid form of theater. Her ultimate dream, she said, is to create a whole universe and language akin to the legendary legacy established by Issey Miyake.
As the Grand Prize winner, Chen will receive substantial support from Chanel, the festival’s long-term Grand Partner, alongside new Grand Partner le19M and its ten esteemed maisons d’art. Additional grants and backing will come from sponsors including the Atelier des Matières, Supima, and newcomer Watteau, the visual content hub. Further support has been secured from Les Teintures de France, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp, and Richemont’s AZ Academy, among others. Furthermore, all fashion laureates from this year’s festival will be proudly showcased by Première Classe during Paris Fashion Week in March and October 2027.
The fashion category celebrated several other visionary talents. London-based artist and designer Dieter Vlasich Obermann, representing Mexico and Germany, secured the 19M Métiers d’Art Prize for a collection deeply inspired by tiliches—the Mexican term for "junk"—and the hidden handicrafts they can conceal. Meanwhile, Paris-based Dutch designer Rachel Luurssen captured the Ateliers des Matières Prize with a women’s wear collection informed by the intoxicating mix of Hollywood glamour and coquettes, underpinned by themes of fading beauty and body dysmorphia.
In the men’s wear category, Paris-based Chinese designer Xiao Xu won the Supima Prize for "Uncanny," a collection rooted in latex, 1970s fetish culture, traditional embroidery, and innovative knitwear. Earning both a special mention and the coveted Public Prize, Spanish designer Brais Albor Rodriguez stunned audiences with a collection that wittily and improbably fused the concept of squirrels—utilizing shearling sourced secondhand via Vinted—with masculine bravado. Additional Grand Prize honors were awarded to Sassa Ann van Wyk for Accessories and Motoki Nakatani for Photography.
Renewal and transformation permeated the atmosphere at the historic Villa Noailles this year, extending far beyond the runway. The festival’s official motif—a racing flag featuring a star set against a pink-and-green checkered ground—signaled a powerful return to form and momentum. Organizers proudly characterized this edition as "a year of firsts," a distinction underscored not only by Chen becoming the first Chinese designer to secure the top fashion honor, but also by Hugo Luccino, the festival’s managing director, appointing women to head every single jury. Chloé creative director Chemena Kamali led the fashion jury, photographer Camille Vivier oversaw photography, and Danish fashion designer Cecilie Bahnsen judged the accessories category.
This purposeful leadership alignment extended into civic governance as well. In her welcome speech, Josée Massi—the mayor of Toulon, who earlier this spring made history as the first woman president of the Métropole Toulon Provence Méditerranée—addressed the 30 finalists with an encouraging message, reminding them that their place in the industry is secure and that true talent transcends any single accolade. Shortly after, newly elected Hyères mayor Véronique Bernardini, the first woman to hold the post since its creation in 1677, officially opened the festivities by riffing on a famous Gabrielle Chanel maxim, declaring that trends inevitably pass, but style remains—and in Hyères, audacity is never out of style.
At the subsequent reception, Mayor Massi praised the strategic decision to bring the fashion shows directly to the Forum du Casino in the heart of Hyères, viewing it as a cultural renaissance. Emphasizing that culture must never be elitist, she stressed the importance of bringing art as close to the public as possible, particularly the younger generation. Massi envisions Hyères and Toulon functioning as twin economic and cultural hubs for fashion and design, respectively. Toulon already hosts a satellite campus for the École Camondo interior architecture and design school, and discussions are underway to potentially relocate the Design Parade to its Porte d’Italie district as early as next year.
Stepping into her role in July, Villa Noailles president Valérie Duport also celebrated a personal milestone, noting candidly that she was the one who raised her hand to take on the leadership challenge. Duport paid enthusiastic tribute to France’s pioneering fashion festival, emphasizing that institutional longevity is a rare and vital commodity in an industry defined by volatility. Regarding the physical and structural future of the venue, Duport confirmed that a comprehensive financial roadmap is already in place to address and clear approximately €1.3 million of existing debt over the next two years, clearing the path for a fresh start.
The festival’s installations successfully bridged past innovation with contemporary evolution by welcoming back familiar faces from previous years. Lucas Emilio Brunner, who captured last year’s Grand Prize with an inflatable-based collection, returned with "Standards," a sharply executed lineup inspired by sports flags and 1960s Ivy League style, created in collaboration with the Ateliers de Verneuil. Standout pieces included draped striped poplin shirts, polos with contrasting trim, and a striking coat crafted from leather marquetry.
Other alumni made notable returns to the festival grounds. Emma Bruschi, winner of the 2020 le19M Métiers d’Art Prize, headlined a collaborative straw-weaving workshop alongside Galerie 19M. Amaury Darras, the 2025 Accessories Grand Prize laureate, showcased "Keratina Medusa," an arresting Art Nouveau-inspired corset created in partnership with Goossens that expertly merges fine cabinetry with jewelry-making. Adrien Michel, who won the 2025 le19M Métiers d’Art Prize, introduced a capsule collection inspired by Marcel Breuer’s iconic Cesca B34 chair, anchored by a clever shirt that unfolds directly out of a leather case produced with Studio MTX. Sébastien Meunier, who launched his eponymous label after winning the Hyères Grand Prize in 1998, also returned to present "Re-Authored," a retrospective re-examination of his creative legacy.
As part of its broader revitalization strategy, Luccino announced that the doors of the Villa Noailles will remain open to the public for longer stretches throughout the year. Expanded cultural programming will build directly upon the foundational fashion and design festivals by hosting museum-caliber exhibitions, alongside the revival of a robust roster of artistic residencies.
Reflecting on the enduring mission of the institution, Luccino noted that the gathering remains an uncompromised festival of creativity and an open platform for young talents to express their unique perspectives without constraint. They are the individuals actively posing difficult questions and, most importantly, imagining the world of tomorrow. While definitive answers are not always readily available—and creative processes often yield more questions than resolutions—these subjects are undeniably here to stay, and their earliest artistic intuitions will always find a welcoming home in Hyères.
The exhibitions and programming for the 41st International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories in Hyères will remain on view through February 28, 2027. The venue is open Wednesday through Sunday from 1:00 PM to 6:00 PM. Further details and visitor information can be found at villanoailles.com.
