This afternoon, the 41st International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories in Hyères, France, officially announced its winners, marking a watershed moment for the legendary institution. Yui Chen took home the prestigious Grand Prize for “Food Cover,” a women’s wear-leaning unisex lineup that the Shanghai-based designer described as a deeply personal way of preserving childhood memories. Developed in collaboration with Montex, Chen’s striking silhouettes cleverly combined everyday pieces—such as a yellow lingerie dress—with collapsible overlayers, including a tent-like structure in transparent lace and a cage constructed from leather bows.
During her showroom presentation, Chen detailed her meticulous design process, explaining how she models every single piece in miniature at least once before creating actual, full-sized garments. This innovative technique yielded remarkable creations, such as an eight-paneled sheath dress crafted from recycled leather that folds completely flat, much like an accordion. Speaking about her overarching philosophy, Chen shared her ambitions with Vogue, noting that fashion represents the most vivid form of theater. Her ultimate dream, she revealed, is to create an entire universe and distinct language, much like the legendary Issey Miyake did before her.
Chen’s victory is accompanied by an extensive array of support from the industry’s heavyweights. She will receive backing from Chanel, the festival’s long-term Grand Partner, alongside new Grand Partner le19M and its 10 maisons d’art. Additional grants and resources will be provided by sponsors including the Atelier des Matières, Supima, and newcomer Watteau, the visual content hub. Further support will flow from Les Teintures de France, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp, and Richemont’s AZ Academy, among others. Furthermore, all fashion laureates from this year’s festival will be showcased by Première Classe during Paris Fashion Week in March and October 2027.
Beyond the Grand Prize, the festival recognized several other visionary talents across multiple disciplines. London-based artist and designer Dieter Vlasich Obermann, representing Mexico and Germany, scooped the 19M Métiers d’Art Prize for a collection inspired by tiliches—the traditional Mexican concept of "junk"—and the hidden handicraft they often conceal. Meanwhile, Paris-based Dutch designer Rachel Luurssen was awarded the Ateliers des Matières Prize for a women’s wear collection informed by a complex mix of Hollywood glamour, coquettish aesthetics, fading beauty, and body dysmorphia.
In the menswear category, Paris-based Chinese designer Xiao Xu won the Supima Prize for a collection titled "Uncanny," which drew inspiration from latex, 1970s fetish culture, traditional embroidery, and intricate knitwear. The coveted honors of both a special mention and the Public Prize went to Brais Albor Rodriguez from Spain. Rodriguez captured the audience and jury alike with an improbable yet witty collection that humorously and skillfully fused the imagery of squirrels—crafted using shearling sourced second-hand on Vinted—with notions of masculinity. Other major category winners included Sassa Ann van Wyk, who claimed the Grand Prize for Accessories, and Motoki Nakatani, who took home the Grand Prize for Photography.
The spirit of renewal was palpable across the historic Villa Noailles, serving as a fitting backdrop for an edition that organizers dubbed “a year of firsts.” This theme was visually encapsulated by the festival’s official motif: a racing flag bearing a star against a vibrant pink-and-green checkered ground, signaling that the storied event is successfully back on track.
This sense of unprecedented transformation extended directly to the leadership of the event. Hugo Luccino, the festival’s managing director, historicized the 41st edition by placing women at the head of every single jury panel. The creative director of Chloé, Chemena Kamali, headed the fashion jury; acclaimed photographer Camille Vivier led the photography jury; and renowned Danish fashion designer Cecilie Bahnsen oversaw the accessories jury.
Women were equally at the helm of civic leadership during the opening ceremonies. In her welcome speech, Josée Massi—the mayor of Toulon, who earlier this spring became the first woman president of the Métropole Toulon Provence Méditerranée—addressed the 30 international finalists with an empowering message. "You already have your place," she told them. "Talent is not about one prize." Following her remarks, Hyères’s newly elected mayor, Véronique Bernardini, who made history as the first woman to hold the post since its creation in 1677, officially opened the festivities. She offered a modern riff on a famous Gabrielle Chanel line, declaring that while trends pass, style remains, and in Hyères, audacity is never out of style.
At the subsequent reception, Mayor Massi praised the strategic decision to bring the main fashion shows directly to the Forum du Casino, situated in the very heart of Hyères. Describing the move as a renaissance, she emphasized that culture should never be elitist and that the community must get as close to the people as possible. This philosophy extends directly to the younger generation, with Massi noting that the future stands less than a meter tall and that cultural institutions must go out into the community to find them.
Massi outlined a collaborative vision where Hyères and Toulon function as twin hubs for fashion and design, respectively. Toulon already hosts a satellite campus of the École Camondo interior architecture and design school, and discussions are underway to potentially move the Design Parade to Toulon’s Porte d’Italie district as early as next year.
The executive leadership of the Villa Noailles is undergoing its own transition. Valérie Duport, who assumed the presidency of the institution in July, noted her own series-first moment when stepping into the role. Emphasizing the importance of longevity in a notoriously difficult industry, Duport paid tribute to France’s pioneering fashion festival. Looking toward the future, she described the Villa Noailles as a living, breathing space designed to welcome people in. Addressing the festival’s operational hurdles with complete transparency, Duport confirmed that a comprehensive financial plan is already underway to clear approximately €1.3 million of debt over the next two years, allowing the organization to reset and start anew.
The festival also served as a homecoming for several past luminaries, whose return highlighted the enduring legacy of the event. Lucas Emilio Brunner, who won last year’s Grand Prize for a collection centered around inflatables, returned to present "Standards." Executed in collaboration with the Ateliers de Verneuil, the polished lineup drew inspiration from sports flags and 1960s Ivy League style, featuring standout pieces such as draped striped poplin shirts, polos with contrasting trim, and a coat crafted from intricate leather marquetry.
Emma Bruschi, winner of the 2020 le19M Métiers d’Art Prize, returned to headline a collaborative straw-weaving workshop alongside Galerie 19M. Amaury Darras, the 2025 Accessories Grand Prize laureate, showcased "Keratina Medusa," an arresting Art Nouveau-inspired corset created in partnership with Goossens that seamlessly bridges cabinetry and jewelry-making. Adrien Michel, winner of the 2025 le19M Métiers d’Art Prize, introduced a capsule collection inspired by Marcel Breuer’s iconic Cesca B34 chair, anchored by an innovative shirt that folds out of a custom leather case crafted with Studio MTX. Finally, Sébastien Meunier—who launched his eponymous label after winning the Grand Prize at Hyères in 1998—returned with "Re-Authored," a thoughtful retrospective and re-examination of his own creative legacy.
As part of this bold new era, managing director Hugo Luccino announced that the doors of the Villa Noailles will remain open for longer periods throughout the year. Expanded programming will build upon the foundational fashion and design festivals by introducing ambitious, museum-style exhibitions, alongside the revival of a comprehensive roster of artistic residencies.
Reflecting on the enduring mission of the institution, Luccino encapsulated the essence of the gathering. "It’s the festival of creativity, a place for young talents to express themselves however they like," he noted. "They’re the ones who are asking the questions and, above all, will inhabit and imagine the world of tomorrow. There aren’t always answers. Sometimes there are more questions than answers—but these are subjects that are here to stay. And the first signs of those artistic intuitions, you find them in Hyères."
The exhibitions and programming for the 41st International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories in Hyères will remain on view through February 28, 2027. The venue is open Wednesday through Sunday from 1:00 PM to 6:00 PM.
