Raymond Weil kicked off its milestone 50th-anniversary celebrations earlier this year with the introduction of the Fifty, a vintage-inspired limited-edition chronograph driven by an authentic and historically significant vintage calibre. Now, the Geneva-based watchmaker is keeping the momentum of its anniversary going with the debut of the Millesime Jubilee. This new release is a slightly larger yet significantly more accessible "panda" dial variant that thoughtfully borrows the celebrated Millesime collection’s signature "sector" dial layout alongside appealing, classical "pump-style" chronograph pushers.
Strictly limited to a production run of 500 pieces, the new Jubilee variant replaces the pure vintage movement of its predecessor with a modern, reliable automatic calibre. It also dispenses with the white gold bezel found on the original Fifty. Even with these modifications, the Jubilee manages to retain much of the undeniable charm, mechanical allure, and aesthetic execution that made the Fifty such a standout release, all while coming in at less than half the price point.
Initial thoughts
For an independent watchmaker that spent several years searching for its footing in a hyper-competitive market, Raymond Weil is currently claiming a well-deserved renewed sense of relevance. Established in 1976 by the eponymous founder during a notoriously challenging era for Swiss watchmaking—the height of the quartz crisis—the brand was one of the rare industry startups from that period to survive and ultimately prosper. By focusing on classical, elegant designs offered at accessible price points, backed by clever and widespread advertising campaigns, the company became a household name. At the peak of its commercial success in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the brand was moving an impressive half a million watches per year globally.
However, as the affordable luxury watch segment grew increasingly crowded with both legacy competitors and agile independent newcomers, Raymond Weil gradually lost ground and spent a number of years languishing in the shadows of the broader market. That trajectory shifted dramatically with the introduction of the Millesime collection, a line that has successfully given the brand a much more convincing and cohesive identity. The Millesime pieces combine universally familiar vintage styling cues with an unusually high degree of attention to detail and finishing quality for their price bracket.
The new Jubilee chronograph is no exception to this renaissance. One of its standout aesthetic features is the conical flange carrying the tachymeter scale, which proves particularly appealing upon close inspection. Attractively snailed, this flange slopes gently toward the outer edge of the dial, hovering delicately above the primary dial base and separated by a clean, sharp border defined by a polished metal ring that gives the piece an expensive, high-end feel.
While the earlier Fifty remains the mechanically more fascinating watch due to its rare movement, the Jubilee offers a bulletproof modern engine and a far more approachable price tag. Retailing at just CHF 3,895, the Jubilee commands less than half the price of the manually wound Fifty, making it an attractive proposition for collectors and enthusiasts looking to access Raymond Weil’s elevated design language.
The Fifty grows up
Beyond its contrasting "panda" sub-dial configuration, the most noticeable physical difference between the Jubilee and the Fifty is its overall footprint. The Jubilee measures 39 mm in diameter and 12.9 mm in thickness, making it precisely 2 mm larger in both dimensions than its predecessor.
As is frequently the case in contemporary watchmaking when adapting vintage designs, modern movements and case construction requirements often yield larger dimensions, and many vintage remakes struggle to preserve the delicate proportions that made the historical originals so charming. Similar scaling challenges can be seen in other recent releases across the industry, such as the Longines Master Monopusher, which also leans toward an overly large vintage throwback profile.
Raymond Weil certainly could have explored a manual-winding variant for this platform to shave off a bit of thickness, but any reduction in profile probably would not have outweighed the everyday convenience of automatic winding. Furthermore, at 39 mm, the watch remains remarkably compact and well-proportioned for a modern automatic chronograph, wearing comfortably across a wide variety of wrist sizes.
The visual bulk is successfully mitigated by several clever design choices. A box-form sapphire crystal and sophisticated case architecture—which draws clear inspiration from historical classics like the legendary Patek Philippe reference 1463—work in tandem to keep the perceived thickness in check.
Moreover, the inclusion of drilled lugs helps to cement the vintage feel of the design, working harmoniously with the rounded pump pushers that offer a satisfying tactile feedback under the forefinger and thumb when operating the chronograph. The deliberate absence of a date window is another welcome touch that stays faithful to the minimalist aesthetic of mid-century chronographs, a detail that many modern brands unfortunately overlook in pursuit of everyday practicality.
A closer look at the dial reveals a surprising depth of color and finishing. Under most viewing angles, the Jubilee appears to feature a straightforward, high-contrast black-on-white panda layout. In reality, however, the recessed sub-dials are rendered in a deep midnight blue, while the central dial base presents as a very light, icy blue depending on how the light catches the surface.
This intricate play of color is complemented by an embossed center section, a grained hour track, and the aforementioned snailed outer flange. Together, these elements give the familiar sector dial layout a rich degree of textural depth without ever overwhelming the clean harmony of the overall design.
Industrial watchmaking done well
Unlike the Fifty, which relied on a genuine "new old stock" Valjoux 236 manual-wind movement, the Jubilee houses a much more utilitarian and quotidian calibre. Designated by Raymond Weil as the RW5030, the movement is fundamentally a Sellita SW510—a member of the venerable Valjoux 7750 family—customized here with a bicompax two-sub-dial layout and no date function.
While this movement architecture is ubiquitous throughout the Swiss watch industry, viewing it alongside the Fifty’s vintage engine highlights the fascinating evolution of industrial watchmaking. That is not to suggest that the RW5030 matches the artisanal allure of the Fifty’s vintage Valjoux, which benefits significantly from traditional hand-finishing, including polished bevels, sharp countersinks, and contrasting surface treatments across its hand-bevelled bridges.
Nevertheless, the modern Sellita-based platform holds its own through its pristine, highly consistent execution. Even though its individual components are largely tumbled and chemically polished rather than hand-worked, the resulting surfaces are admirably clean and dependable. Furthermore, the platform is extraordinarily mature, robust, and easily serviced by watchmakers anywhere in the world.
While very little has been done to visually embellish the otherwise utilitarian calibre—most internal surfaces feature a uniform, industrial matte finish—the factory has added a small flourish via the oscillating weight. The automatic rotor is open-worked in the shape of a stylized letter "W," serving as a subtle brand signature that helps distinguish the view through the sapphire display case back.
Key facts and price
Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee
Ref. 7776-STC-65501
Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 12.9 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 meters
Movement: RW5030 (Sellita SW510)
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 56 hours
Strap: Calfskin leather strap with pin buckle
Limited edition: 500 pieces
Availability: Now available at Raymond Weil boutiques and authorized retailers
Price: CHF 3,895 excluding taxes
