For vintage watch collectors and horological enthusiasts with an appetite for the extraordinary, the secondary market continues to offer a revolving door of historical treasures, design oddities, and museum-worthy pieces. In this week’s edition of Hodinkee’s "What’s Selling Where" column, a stellar lineup of rare timepieces has captured the attention of the global collecting community. From a stainless steel triple-date chronograph carrying direct familial provenance from the Breguet dynasty to an unusually stylized jewelry watch from Boucheron, the current auction landscape provides plenty of material for seasoned collectors and casual admirers alike.
Before diving deep into the horological heavyweights hitting the auction block, it is worth noting that the wider world of vintage collecting frequently intersects with pop culture and memorabilia. For those with a surplus of time, capital, and an appreciation for whimsical Americana, an upcoming auction offers plenty of distractions outside of traditional watchmaking. Julien’s Auctions is currently hosting "Paul Reubens’ Big Auction," featuring items directly from the estate of the late actor best known as Pee-wee Herman. Among the eclectic assortment of props and personal effects is a replica of Pee-wee’s iconic bicycle, complete with a 2011 Visionary Spike TV Scream Award.
Looking back at last week’s market tracking, the auction schedule remains brisk. The anticipated Orvis Solunagraph is slated to hit the auction block next Thursday, while the LIP Mach 2000 enters the market later today. Previous high-end listings have already yielded solid results: a Patek Philippe reference 5107 changed hands for €13,500, while a striking Omega DeVille Emerald found a new home for a modest $650.
As the calendar turns toward the latest batch of offerings, the market features a healthy mix of affordable vintage surprises—such as a 1960s/1970s Invicta world time wristwatch and a charismatic triangular Zenith purse watch—alongside serious collector-grade centerpieces. Among these, four distinct wristwatches stand out for their exceptional pedigree, design history, and market significance.
A Breguet’s Triple-Date Chronograph with Moon Phase
Stainless steel Breguet triple-date chronographs equipped with a moon phase complication are not entirely unheard of, but they are undeniably scarce. Market comparables demonstrate the high stakes attached to this specific complication and manufacturer. A similar example offered by Phillips during a 2018 Geneva watch auction realized CHF 131,250. Christie’s subsequently sold another specimen the following year for CHF 300,000, followed by a third example in 2022 that commanded CHF 176,400.
What sets the currently listed piece apart from those previous market appearances—aside from the fact that those earlier examples featured marginally cleaner dials—is an unmatched level of provenance. This specific watch originates directly from the collection of Emmanuel Breguet, the Vice President and Head of Patrimony at Montres Breguet, as well as a direct descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet, the legendary inventor of the tourbillon. In terms of historical pedigree and horological significance, it is difficult to imagine a more deeply rooted artifact.
The watch is far from a flawless, collector-grade "safe queen." The dial exhibits minor imperfections and signs of age, while the unlumed dauphine hands show minor wear. However, the sheer rarity of the reference easily merits overlooking these minor cosmetic flaws, especially when weighed against the undeniable weight of its ownership history. The case itself presents in admirable condition, featuring clear caseback engravings that underscore its authenticity.
Because of the unique intersection between condition and historical lineage, evaluating the true market value of a "Breguet’s Breguet" presents a fascinating paradox. The watch is scheduled to go under the hammer next Friday, with a pre-sale auction estimate ranging between €80,000 and €160,000, a figure that the market will put to the ultimate test.
LIP ‘Paul Newman’ Chronograph
The history of the French watchmaker LIP during the tumultuous 1970s is well-documented, marked by existential corporate struggles, shifting ownership, and a fluid approach to parts sourcing. This manufacturing backdrop complicates the evaluation of vintage LIP chronographs, particularly the much-discussed reference often dubbed the "Paul Newman" due to its distinctive dial layout.
While horological researchers have previously mapped out the nuances of this specific reference, the example currently heading to auction does not neatly align with established benchmarks. Given the brand’s industrial realities during the 1970s, it is safe to assume the watch was assembled using factory-available parts with little foresight that decades later, obsessive collectors would parse every millimeter of its construction.
The watch features a 36mm gold-plated case with sharp, well-defined lugs. Despite a notable ding at the bottom of the bezel between the five and six o’clock positions, the case retains much of its original charm. The dial and hand configuration, however, are where things grow wonderfully complicated. The running seconds subdial at nine o’clock and the LIP logo exhibit a slightly smudged appearance, suggesting an imprecise original printing process.
Furthermore, the black hand on the nine o’clock subdial departs from strict historical consistency, though comparable examples with similar hand configurations have traded on the vintage market. The correct blue hour and minute hands remain intact, while the chronograph seconds and minute hands have faded to a soft, aged orange patina. Powering the watch is a dependable Valjoux 7733 movement, though it currently requires a service as the chronograph complication is non-functioning. Given the ubiquity of the movement, any competent watchmaker should be able to restore it to working order. The watch heads to auction with an estimate of €500 to €800, presenting an accessible entry point for collectors willing to embrace vintage character.
IWC Aquatimer Reference 812
As IWC’s contemporary catalog continues to feature the modern Aquatimer, looking back at the vintage reference that launched the line offers a vital reminder of mid-century dive watch design. Introduced in 1967, the Aquatimer reference 812 marked IWC’s relatively late but exceptionally polished entry into the professional dive watch sector. Offering water resistance up to 20 atmospheres, it easily competed with the industry standards of its era.
Housed in a classic 37mm compressor-style case manufactured by EPSA, the watch features the characteristic short, stubby lugs typical of the period. This specific specimen presents in exceptionally clean condition, retaining its original signed IWC crown, which serves as a reassuring indicator that the watch has neither endured a overly punishing life nor undergone aggressive polishing.
The true highlight of this Aquatimer, however, is its pristine dial, handset, and internal rotating bezel. While IWC eventually produced four distinct dial and bezel configurations, this particular model represents the earliest and purest execution: a stark black bezel paired with a matching black dial. The tritium lume has aged remarkably evenly across both the hour plots and the hands, showing none of the structural cracking commonly found in vintage divers. Complementing the layout is a paddle-ended seconds hand that easily ranks among the most distinctive handset designs of the 1960s.
Driven by the legendary IWC caliber 8541—an automatic movement featuring a Breguet overcoil shared with the period’s Ingenieur models—this Aquatimer lacks its original steel bracelet, a detail that may help keep its final acquisition cost grounded. Estimated between €5,000 and €5,500, the watch goes to auction in Spain.
Boucheron White Gold Carré
Rounding out the week’s selections is a genuine mystery piece: a mid-1960s Boucheron Carré in white gold. While Boucheron’s historical wristwatches are celebrated for their artistic audacity, they remain an understudied segment of the vintage market, making authentic comparisons and definitive reference tracking a challenge. Above all else, Boucheron timepieces are first and foremost jewelry creations, prioritizing avant-garde style and design over pure horological complexity.
This particular white gold Carré features a minimalist dial anchored by a large, stylized, hand-painted "B" at its center. Finding supporting documentation or identical comparables for such artistic pieces can be an uphill battle for collectors. While a similar yellow gold Carré has appeared through the same retail channels, and occasional white gold counterparts surface in specialized international markets, authenticating these pieces often requires direct consultation with historical experts and authors deeply versed in Boucheron’s archives.
Beyond its provenance puzzle, the watch is an undeniably compelling object. The applied hour markers, particularly the elongated Roman numeral XII at the top of the dial, showcase exceptional craftsmanship. The white gold case measures a diminutive 24 by 28 millimeters, remaining unpolished with crisp lines and legible caseback engravings. True to Boucheron’s design language of the period, the watch utilizes a mechanical strap-attachment system derived from the iconic Reflet line, featuring sliding posts that extend from the top and bottom of the case.
Offered by High End Time for $9,150, this white gold Carré represents the ultimate expression of niche collecting—a timepiece built for the enthusiast who values distinct individuality, artistic refinement, and a subtle touch of the handcrafted over mainstream recognizability.
