Since taking over the creative helm of French heritage house Balmain one year ago, designer Antonin Tron has successfully infused the brand’s womenswear with a distinctly slinky, sensual, and cinematic glamour. Now, he is officially turning up the heat in the men’s department, signaling a major strategic evolution for the Paris-based label.
In an exclusive interview discussing his men’s debut for the pre-spring 2027 season, Tron explained the clear vision behind the expansion. "I wanted something very sexy because the womenswear is also very sexy," Tron said.
Rather than holding back for a traditional runway presentation, the designer chose to unveil this new era of "unapologetic masculinity" to coincide directly with the collection’s arrival in stores on Wednesday. The launch is heavily supported by an evocative, high-impact marketing campaign featuring bare-chested models—described by Tron as lotharios—lolling around in fields of hay. In the striking images, captured by renowned Dutch magazine photographer Matthias Vriens, the models are seen wearing little more than tailored shorts and soccer shoes.
Discussing the visual direction of the campaign, Tron threw out descriptors like "a little bit Mapplethorpe-y, a little cruise-y," alongside "punk" and "playful." This racy visual approach is undoubtedly designed to capture fresh attention for Balmain menswear, a category that currently accounts for only 20 percent of the company’s overall business. In recent years, the house’s men’s offerings had drifted toward a heavy focus on sneakers, logos, and T-shirts, largely riding the wave of the global luxury streetwear craze.
While Tron has dedicated the majority of his distinguished fashion career to womenswear—including his work at his own brand Atlein, which is currently on pause, as well as earlier tenures at Givenchy, Balenciaga, and Saint Laurent—his roots in menswear run deep. Notably, his graduate collection at Antwerp’s prestigious Royal Academy of Arts was entirely dedicated to men’s evening finery. Furthermore, he spent two formative years designing men’s collections at Louis Vuitton alongside Paul Helbers.
Reflecting on his return to menswear design at Balmain, Tron acknowledged that the process holds deep personal significance. "Designing for men, at least for me, is very personal. It’s also about what you like personally and what stage you are in life," he noted.
The strapping designer, who is an avid surfer, naturally projects a casual, lived-in style. During a recent Microsoft Teams call, he appeared wearing a plaid Stussy shirt layered over a faded blue knit. His personal closet is filled with vintage T-shirts from heavy metal and goth bands, where the patina, wash, and hand of the fabric matter just as much as the graphic artwork. His everyday wardrobe also leans heavily into vintage Carhartt, rugged cowboy boots, and classic leather biker jackets.
This personal aesthetic translates directly into the "laid-back sexiness" he has infused into Balmain menswear. The comprehensive new collection spans a wide spectrum of wardrobe staples, ranging from sharp business suits and luxurious velvet dinner jackets to fluid, silky leopard-print shirts.
Although house founder Pierre Balmain designed his very first men’s collection approximately 60 years ago for the spring 1967 season, Tron noted that he did not actively pull from the historical archives for his debut effort. Instead, he chose to tap into the exact same wellspring of inspiration that fueled his recent women’s spring and pre-spring collections: California counterculture. This reference point yields a slightly louche, effortlessly cool 1970s feel throughout the garments.
Among the male style icons on Tron’s mood board for his debut collection were legendary 1970s surfer David Nuuhiwa, influential musicians Lou Reed and Andrew Eldritch (the lead singer of The Sisters of Mercy), and iconic 1990s Hollywood breakout stars Brad Pitt and Matthew McConaughey.
Despite expanding into distinct menswear categories, the designer remains adamant that Balmain’s men’s and women’s collections must "work hand in hand," reflecting a unified vision and identical energy. In practice, Tron utilized many of the exact same sophisticated fabrics across both genders—including rich jacquards and intricate fil coupé. He considers several key styles, such as embroidered leather jackets, lace-up trousers, gilded blazers, and statement denim, to be "almost like unisex pieces."
"I wanted the richness and the same kind of nonchalant attitude—and a bit of a rock vibe—as the women’s," he said, emphasizing the cohesive thread running through both lines.
Tron also noted that he deliberately utilizes pre-collections to explore the cooler, more casual side of Balmain, while reserving the main runway shows for more elaborate, couture-like fashions that showcase the absolute pinnacle of the atelier’s craftsmanship.
In a separate interview, Balmain Chief Executive Officer Matteo Sgarbossa described the launch of Tron’s first menswear collection as a critical component of the ongoing transformation of the Paris-based house, reflective of a deliberate, step-by-step management approach. Since Sgarbossa assumed the helm of executive management in May 2024, he has paused external brand collaborations to refocus the company on its core womenswear business and foundational identity.
During his tenure, Sgarbossa has made pivotal hires across merchandising, communications, retail, and client relations. He has also appointed several new zone presidents and reinforced the brand’s design studio specifically for leather goods, which leadership views as a category with exceptionally high growth potential.
"We want to do things properly," Sgarbossa stated, outlining a clear ambition to grow the men’s business so that it accounts for 30 to 35 percent of the brand’s total revenue. Achieving this target relies on offering a wider, more comprehensive product range with a stronger fashion point of view that transitions seamlessly from day to evening. "The goal at Balmain is simple: to become bigger. We want to do it leveraging on men as well because the brand resonates with men."
Sgarbossa cited an overwhelmingly positive reaction to Tron’s initial womenswear designs from boutique clients, wholesale partners, and newly acquired customers alike, signaling that the company is fully prepared to take this next major step.
Tron’s debut men’s designs are scheduled to land in 18 of Balmain’s 44 global boutiques, strategically assigned to retail locations that are large enough to properly display the expansive breadth of the new offer. For instance, the nearly 1,000-square-foot lower level of Balmain’s new gallery-like flagship store at 23 Via della Spiga in Milan will prominently showcase the newly expanded men’s categories.
Key wholesale partners embracing the pre-spring menswear collection include major luxury retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Net-a-Porter, and Mytheresa, according to Sgarbossa.
The executive described a broader, shifting momentum within the luxury menswear market, noting that contemporary male shoppers are increasingly in tune with their personal desires and are "expecting more from a luxury brand."
Echoing Tron, Sgarbossa reaffirmed the company’s commitment to ensuring a strong, seamless alignment between the men’s and women’s fashion universes. He pointed back to Pierre Balmain’s original men’s debut, noting that it was "quite bold in the proposition, and very aligned in terms of aesthetics and codes with the women’s. Can you imagine?"
