Having successfully remade and refined its first-ever wristwatch, French luxury powerhouse Louis Vuitton is now turning its attention back into its archives to do the same for its second. The newly unveiled Monterey Ceramic represents a thoughtful, modern reimagining of the historic LV II, which first debuted in 1988. This latest release preserves the distinctive, visionary case and dial architecture originally designed by the celebrated Italian architect Gae Aulenti, but updates the execution with modern, high-end materials and mechanical sophistication.
Just as Louis Vuitton did with the earlier Monterey in 18k gold—which launched as a high-end limited edition—the new ceramic model does away with the quartz movement of the 1988 original and replaces it entirely with a contemporary, in-house automatic calibre. While the case has been scaled up slightly to accommodate this mechanical heart, it successfully retains the precise proportions and quirky, avant-garde form that made the original timepiece a collector’s curiosity. However, unlike last year’s exclusive gold edition, the Monterey Ceramic is a regular production model, making it far more accessible to enthusiasts of independent-thinking watch design.
Initial thoughts
Positioned as a more approachable and versatile iteration of last year’s limited-edition gold piece, the Monterey Ceramic captures much of the same design ethos and mechanical integrity while swapping precious metal for high-tech ceramic and steel, and a fired enamel dial for a sleek lacquered alternative. Even with these material adjustments, the Monterey Ceramic emerges as an infinitely more sophisticated watch than its 1988 predecessor, bridging the gap between high fashion and serious independent watchmaking.
The styling of the 1988 originals has long enjoyed a cult following among design historians and horological purists. The modern-day reissues manage to capture that distinct look and feel without slipping into pure pastiche. The Monterey Ceramic, in particular, stays remarkably faithful to the case diameter of the original model. Though it carries a marginally increased height to house its automatic mechanism, it respects the core proportions of the historic LV II.
Priced at €19,000 before taxes, the Monterey Ceramic sits firmly in the territory of modern luxury watchmaking, yet it features the intrinsic mechanical and material qualities required to justify that price tag. Notably, it costs less than a third of last year’s gold model. While the gold version offered incredible features—including a meticulously crafted fired enamel dial—its price point placed it out of reach for many. The ceramic model strikes a much more balanced chord, offering high-end horology and striking industrial design at a more palatable tier.
The cultural footprint of the design was recently underscored during a Louis Vuitton women’s ready-to-wear fashion show, where the Monterey was creatively showcased not just on the wrist, but worn as a belt watch and a pocket watch, paying homage to its versatile, unconventional heritage.
Industrial design
The story of Louis Vuitton’s entry into wristwatches is rooted in bold architectural vision. Italian architect Gae Aulenti was commissioned to design the brand’s first-ever wristwatch collection, which originally launched in two distinct variations: the LV I in 18k gold and the LV II in ceramic. Both models shared an overarching design language, alongside a quartz alarm movement supplied by IWC, a component that has notoriously become a significant challenge to service and repair in the modern era.
According to brand lore and watchmaking folklore, these early timepieces were officially known as the montre I and montre II, translating from French as "watch I" and "watch II." However, frequent mispronunciations by non-French speakers eventually birthed the "Monterey" moniker, a casual nickname that has stuck permanently and now defines the modern collection.
While those two original 1988 models were fascinating design objects, they were never considered high horology by contemporary standards. Louis Vuitton’s modern re-engineering of the series brings the timepieces squarely into the present day, elevating both the fit and finish, most notably through the integration of a true mechanical automatic movement.
The Monterey Ceramic is modelled directly on the historical LV II, retaining the core case design and material identity. True to the original, the new timepiece is offered in a choice of black or green ceramic. Even the 37 mm diameter remains identical to the 1988 piece, ensuring it wears with the same vintage compactness, though it is built slightly thicker to accommodate the interior mechanics.
Aulenti’s 1988 design remains wonderfully quirky by modern standards. The case is near-seamless, punctuated only by a crown positioned directly at 12 o’clock. Rather than traditional protruding lugs, the case features a concealed loop built into the case back, designed to accommodate a pass-through strap. This unique construction has been faithfully retained on the Monterey Ceramic. Because of this bottom-loop architecture, the watch can appear visually tall when viewed from certain angles, though it maintains a quite wearable and moderate overall height of 11 millimetres.
The production of high-tech ceramic cases is an intricate, multi-stage industrial process. It begins with a sintered ceramic blank that undergoes precision machining and extensive finishing before it can be transformed into the finished case middle, ensuring sharp lines and smooth surfaces that resist scratching far better than traditional metals.
While last year’s 18k gold Monterey featured an impressive fired enamel dial, the ceramic follow-up relies on a clean, vibrant lacquered dial. While the enamel work on the gold version was a major aesthetic highlight, the significant price difference between the two models makes the choice of a lacquered dial entirely appropriate.
From a design standpoint, the dial serves as a simplified, highly legible tribute to the 1988 original. It retains all the signature graphic elements, including striking red markings and railway-style minute tracks. Because this new version is a pure time-only watch—unlike the original, which doubled as an alarm and date indicator—the dial layout is much cleaner and avoids the visual clutter of its predecessor.
The black ceramic model is paired with a white lacquered dial that looks remarkably close to the historic reference, whereas the green ceramic version injects a dose of playful energy with a matching green lacquered dial accented by contrasting yellow hands. This vibrant colorway leans gently into Louis Vuitton’s foundational identity as an elite leather goods and fashion house, successfully marrying bold aesthetic choices with high-quality mechanical watchmaking.
Speaking of high-quality mechanics, the LFT MA01.02 movement ticking inside the Monterey Ceramic is part of a dedicated family of calibres developed by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Louis Vuitton’s high-end watch manufacture based in Geneva. Conceived as a reliable, high-performance workhorse to anchor the brand’s modern mechanical offerings, these calibres represent exceptional examples of industrial haute horlogerie, matching the construction standards and finishing quality of long-established Geneva peers.
The movement incorporates traditional markers of fine watchmaking, including a Geneva-style stud carrier and the intentional avoidance of wire springs. It also showcases distinct Louis Vuitton aesthetic signatures, such as clear rubies and recessed, frosted surfaces across the movement bridges. Because the LFT MA01.02 was originally engineered for compact complications like the Spin Time, it is a relatively small movement, which accounts for the watch’s modest case thickness and a functional 45-hour power reserve.
Key facts and price
Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic
Ref. W0CR11 (black ceramic)
Ref. W0CR21 (green ceramic)
Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 11 mm
Material: Ceramic and steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 meters
Movement: LFT MA01.02
Functions: Hours, minutes, sweep seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours
Strap: Calf leather strap with steel pin buckle
Limited edition: No
Availability: Exclusively at Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: €19,000 before taxes
