As the international fashion community touches down in the City of Light for the whirlwind of Paris Fashion Week, the conversation among industry insiders remains firmly anchored in the defining highlights, major transitions, and creative high notes that emerged from Milan. Fresh from the Italian fashion capital, Vogue’s Nicole Phelps and Luke Leitch sat down to reflect on the season’s most talked-about collections, seismic creative director handovers, and unforgettable front-row moments on the latest episode of The Run-Through.
The conversation opened with a look at the Diesel show, which served as a monumental milestone for the brand. The presentation marked the emotional and creative conclusion of Glenn Martens’s remarkable six-year run at Diesel, a tenure that fundamentally reshaped the label’s identity before he pivots to devote his complete focus to his work at Maison Margiela. Reflecting on Martens’s lasting influence on the brand, Luke observed that the designer’s vision has consistently championed inclusivity and sex-positivity. "Martens has always been very inclusive, very sex-positive," Luke noted during the podcast episode. "It’s quite punk."
That signature sex-positive energy proved to be more than just a theoretical concept, manifesting itself quite literally in the front row where a young couple was spotted enthusiastically making out during the show. The spontaneous display of youthful affection provided a humorous moment of cultural reflection for the veteran fashion journalists. "I really felt my age and like a slightly disapproving old dowager," Luke added with a self-deprecating laugh, capturing the classic juxtaposition of youthful abandon and establishment observation that often characterizes major fashion events.
From the raw, high-energy punk spirit of Diesel, the discussion turned toward the intellectual and sartorial rigor of the Prada collection. This season, Mrs. Prada and her creative team centered their entire narrative around a singular, deceptively simple garment: the skirt. The choice was not made lightly, following a series of in-depth interviews given by Mrs. Prada—including a notable appearance on The Run-Through podcast alongside Raf Simons—where she explored the concept that the skirt possesses a unique capacity to act as a fundamental canvas for personal and artistic expression, much like a classic T-shirt. The collection sought to interrogate how a foundational wardrobe staple can be repeatedly reconfigured to communicate complex ideas about modernity, femininity, and utility.
Texture and the passage of time took center stage at the Emporio Armani presentation, which marked a poignant chapter in the brand’s history. The collection was the final presentation to be overseen by longtime collaborators Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani before Dario Vitale steps in to take over the creative reins of the brand. The presentation utilized innovative textile treatments to examine how time leaves its mark on clothing and material culture. Among the standout visual and tactile elements was the incorporation of salt crystals encrusted directly onto garments and accessories. While visually striking and conceptually profound, the technique prompted some practical amusement from the critics. "There was the addition and the encrustation of salt crystals on garments and bags, which is not something I’d wanna wear in this Parisian rain because I’d be melting," Luke noted, though he was quick to emphasize that the clothes remained undeniably beautiful despite their meteorological vulnerability.
The spirit of appreciation extended to other major Italian houses, with both Phelps and Leitch cementing their status as proud "Sanderistas"—devoted fans of Simone Bellotti’s latest collection for Jil Sander. Bellotti’s work continues to resonate deeply within the fashion community for its purity of line and understated sophistication. Meanwhile, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear collection for Fendi made a powerful splash, further cementing her evolving vision for the historic Roman luxury house.
A fresh wave of creative energy was equally palpable at Marni, where Meryll Rogge’s collection captured the imagination of a younger generation of consumers and industry observers. Nicole pointed out the distinct demographic shift and cultural alignment surrounding the brand’s presentation. "You can really feel—call them Gen Z, call them what you will—but young people coalescing around her," Nicole said, describing the palpable momentum behind the designer. "The way she’s collaging references and whipping them all together in her own way really speaks to how people who are 30 or so are looking at the ’90s or the early 2000s." This ability to synthesize disparate historical references into a cohesive, contemporary visual language highlights a broader generational shift in how fashion history is consumed, reinterpreted, and rendered modern.
The dialogue also addressed the evolving narrative at Gucci, where Demna experienced a significant moment following a notoriously divisive show earlier in February. This time around, the collection was unveiled within the sophisticated confines of a beautifully realized store environment, providing a more intimate yet impactful setting that allowed the clothes to speak for themselves. The presentation served as a compelling reset and a strategic statement for the luxury behemoth. "It was a fabulous vehicle for saying Gucci is not necessarily just for one person or just for one style," Luke noted. Rather than leaning into a singular, prescriptive aesthetic, Demna envisioned an expansive, diverse universe of distinct characters coming to shop. The lineup thoughtfully catered to a varied cast of archetypes, including the classic horse girl, the unabashed glamourpuss, and the eclectic punk prep-school kids, demonstrating a multifaceted approach to modern luxury dressing.
With the profound explorations of texture, heritage, youth culture, and brand reinvention successfully dissected, the Milan chapter came to a close, paving the way for the next leg of the fashion month marathon. As Phelps, Leitch, and the rest of the international style pack unpack their bags in France, the expectations for what lies ahead on the runways are higher than ever. Paris Fashion Week, here we come. Allez!
