or: JJ Lee and ESQUE/BY Make a Prêt-à-Porter Debut Rooted in Precision Fit
For years, stepping into the world of ESQUE/BY meant entering into an intimate dialogue. Long before the brand made its official ready-to-wear debut in November, its reputation was built entirely within the four walls of its New York bespoke studio. Clients would arrive carrying a single photograph, a carefully curated mood board, or simply an abstract concept for a garment they had searched high and low for in retail stores, only to come up empty-handed. This personalized approach was vividly demonstrated when celebrity and style icon Ashley Graham partnered with the label for the CFDA Fashion Awards, translating the classic men’s dress shirt into a striking, custom red-carpet statement.
That bespoke model served as the studio’s foundational modus operandi until its recent expansion into prêt-à-porter. Rather than abandoning the meticulous techniques perfected in the atelier, the brand successfully translated those artisanal standards into a cohesive, standalone collection. Across both custom commissions and ready-to-wear offerings, ESQUE/BY adheres to a singular, unwavering philosophy: the garment must always adapt dynamically to the individual wearing it, rather than forcing the body to conform to arbitrary sizing standards.
For founder Jennifer “JJ” Lee, this customer-first philosophy took deep root out of necessity when she began altering clothes for her mother following breast cancer surgery. Lee’s path to becoming a master tailor is far from traditional. She initially pursued rigorous academic studies in computational and systems biology, subsequently building a successful professional career in the technology sector. Surprisingly, that analytical background remains firmly woven into the operational DNA of ESQUE/BY to this day. The design team utilizes advanced digital tools to test proportions and silhouettes on screen before passing precise specifications to master patternmakers and tailors stationed in New York’s historic Garment District, where the ideas are finally given tangible shape in rich cloth.
To help guide this next chapter, the label brought on Net-a-Porter alumna Lauren Matina as creative director. Together, Lee and Matina are taking calculated liberties with the traditional rules of contemporary suiting. The garments in the collection begin in reassuringly familiar territory, only to reveal more mischievous, subversive details the longer one looks. A sand-colored jacket dramatically flares over a straight midi skirt. Khaki trousers knot casually and low on one hip, while a sharp black blazer dress hides a red rose on the front with another waiting unexpectedly around back. The collection also introduces a compelling three-piece suit that swaps the conventional waistcoat for a striking strapless corset.
Borrowed From The Boys
The classic "borrowed-from-the-boys" aesthetic continues to command attention across the fashion landscape, but ESQUE/BY approaches the trend with a distinct sense of modern sensuality. The brand’s iteration of the suit possesses a cool, effortless sangfroid that evokes the image of a powerful executive striding down Wall Street at dusk. The styling details are deliberate: the sleeves are pushed up lazily, the crisp white collar spills out casually from the lapels, and a burgundy tie hangs slack and slightly askew, subverting the strict formality of traditional corporate attire.
Romantic Workwear
The conventional corsage receives a radical relocation in this collection. On ESQUE/BY’s double-breasted blazer dress, a long-stemmed rose sits low against the skirt, while a second blossom is tucked high along the back. The garment’s sharp shoulders and covered buttons maintain the proper dignity of a dinner jacket, especially when paired thoughtfully with classic kitten-heel pumps. In this context, traditional trousers are effectively invited to take the night off, replaced entirely by an ensemble that blurs the lines between executive presence and evening romance.
Cool-Girl Officewear
The contemporary preference for buttoning blazers high at the neck is masterfully executed here, with ESQUE/BY nailing the exact silhouette required to make it work. The band collar sits comfortably close to the neck, the shoulders are sharply defined, and the jacket opens just enough to reveal a tasteful sliver of skin. Below the waist, generous swags of khaki fabric are knotted low at the hip with the same casual nonchalance as a sweater tied around the waist on a mild afternoon. It stands as a direct antithesis to staid, unimaginative officewear.
Subtle Draping
A new draped top introduced in the lineup quickly establishes itself as a versatile contender for evening rotations. ESQUE/BY’s high-neck blouse folds gracefully toward one shoulder, achieving the effortless look of a scarf tied to perfection on the very first try. This top is paired with wide-leg trousers that fall straight from the hip with precisely enough volume to delicately skim the shoe. The trousers easily lend themselves to endless styling possibilities, transitioning smoothly from a black cashmere crewneck and ankle boots to a ribbed tank paired with strappy evening heels.
Traditional Tailoring
A classic white shirt truly earns its keep when styled with a few undone buttons, instantly softening the impact of a sharp black blazer and a wide belt. A closer inspection reveals a subtle, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it detail at the wrist: a single buttonhole meticulously stitched in red thread. It is an ensemble that makes a strong case for wearing suiting to formal evening events, offering a rakish, confident alternative to traditional dresses in a sea of conventional eveningwear.
Elevated Eveningwear
The strapless black corset serves as a standout centerpiece in ESQUE/BY’s inaugural ready-to-wear offering. When incorporated into a suit, it fulfills the role of a traditional waistcoat with considerably more edge. Styled here alongside the brand’s long black trousers—cut with a precision that borders on witchy—a silver torque necklace, and opera gloves, the look transforms even an ordinary weeknight dinner reservation into a momentous occasion. The styling allows the opera gloves to gather slightly and rumpled at the elbows, creating the lived-in impression that they have already been out on the town for hours.
The Statement-Making Suit
Through a double-breasted burgundy suit, ESQUE/BY lays bare its made-to-order roots. The jacket falls long and lean from clean, broad shoulders, while the trousers fit closely through the thigh before gently flaring at the hem. The resulting proportions are remarkably well-judged, with the flare at the bottom balancing the structure at the shoulders, and the elongated cut of the jacket drawing the eye downward. Rendered in a rich color sitting somewhere between crushed raspberries and fine red wine, the suit is a masterclass in modern tailoring.
Perfect Proportions
A sand-colored skirt suit might initially sound traditional until one observes how ESQUE/BY reinterprets the silhouette at the hip. The jacket’s wasp-waisted cut kicks out dramatically over a straight midi skirt, evoking a subtle midcentury sensibility underscored by dark, grounding buttons. However, when paired with matching pointed boots, the entire outfit sheds any vintage period-piece connotations, transforming instead into a sharp, contemporary look well-suited for a modern gallery opening.
