True to its supportive ethos, Marteau & Co. is continuing its signature "maker’s fee" initiative for this sale. Under this system, the original creator of the timepiece is rewarded with 3% of the hammer price for each successfully sold watch. This mechanism directly allows contemporary and veteran watchmakers to financially benefit from the appreciation of their past work—a concept known in the fine art world as the artist’s resale right, or droit de suite, which has long been codified into law across Europe. By integrating this into secondary market sales, the auction house bridges the gap between historical creation and ongoing creator sustainability.
Lot 4 — Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur Azur
Serving as a last-minute surprise addition to the auction catalogue, the Futur Antérieur Azur marks the sky-blue debut of the ongoing creative partnership between Louis Erard and master watchmaker Vianney Halter. Created as a unique piece specifically for this auction, the watch continues Halter’s established collaborative streak, serving as a distinct homage to his landmark 1998 creation, the Antiqua perpetual calendar. Rather than directly replicating the legendary original, this new iteration adapts many of its most characteristic architectural elements into a more compact and accessible format.
The watch successfully retains the striking asymmetrical display and layered, multi-part construction that originally distinguished the Antiqua. The hours and minutes are visible through one porthole, while the running seconds are housed within the other. Louis Erard achieved this clever effect efficiently by employing a pair of Sellita SW100 movements housed within the same case—one dedicated to each distinct dial display. This clever mechanical architecture arguably makes this the easiest version of the Antiqua concept to service by far.
While the case construction has been somewhat simplified from the complex original, it remains immediately recognizable thanks to its riveted, studded bezels and crown. Featuring a distinctive "squircle" case shape that maintains faithful proportions, the watch carries an accessible estimate of CHF3,000 to CHF6,000 (approximately US$3,600 to $7,300), though strong collector demand for independent collaborations suggests it will likely hammer well above its high estimate.
Lot 5 — Vianney Halter Goldpfeil
Back in 2001, Goldpfeil, a now-defunct German luxury leather goods brand, commissioned an ambitious series of watches from seven leading independent watchmakers. Dubbed the "Seven Masters" collection, the prestigious roster brought together Svend Anderson, Vincent Calabrese, Bernhard Lederer, Antoine Preziuso, Frank Jutzi, Felix Baumgartner, and Vianney Halter.
Halter’s contribution to the project stood out as the most complicated and expensive model of the group, and it remains the most desirable among collectors today. Its unmistakable shape was inspired by a vintage film camera. The gray-gold case features a unique leatherette texture created through countless tiny divots hammered into the metal by hand, while the crown is cleverly styled to imitate a camera winding knob.
Inside, Halter built much of the movement—designated the GUB60—himself. Much like Paul Gerber, he utilized a Peseux 7001 base caliber as his starting point, subsequently adding an automatic winding system, a jump hour complication, and a notoriously intricate moon phase display. The moon phase mechanism uses an unusual gear ratio, making it mathematically accurate to one day of deviation in 139 years, outperforming the standard 122.6-year accuracy found in many modern high-end watches. Despite Halter’s recent market resurgence, the watch carries a modest pre-sale estimate of CHF12,000 to CHF24,000 (US$14,500 to $29,000).
Lot 8 — Paul Gerber Retro Twin Ref. 158
As a core member of the pioneering generation of independent watch makers who came of age during the 1990s, Paul Gerber combines a distinct Swiss-German technical sensibility with inventive mechanical ideas. His diverse repertoire ranges from the whimsical to the deeply complex, yet his finished timepieces consistently maintain a remarkably understated aesthetic.
Gerber is perhaps best known internationally for creating the Superbia Humanitatis, which was once recognized as the co-most complicated wristwatch ever made alongside Gerald Genta’s Westminster Grande Sonnerie. That masterwork integrated a flying tourbillon, a flyback mechanism, and a split-seconds chronograph into a Louis-Elisée Piguet grand sonnerie movement completed by Franck Muller.
However, the vast majority of Gerber’s independent work is relatively accessible, with the Retro Twin Ref. 158 serving as a prime example. Built upon a Peseux 7001 base, Gerber engineered a proprietary automatic winding system featuring two separate rotors that function as a single unit, alongside a power reserve indicator and retrograde seconds. Issued as a limited edition of just 20 pieces, this particular lot is accompanied by its original box and certificate, carrying an approachable estimate of CHF10,000 to CHF20,000 (approximately US$12,000 to $24,000).
Lot 12 — Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer
Following more than a decade of intensive development, the Double Impulse Chronometer marked the debut wristwatch of the modern-day incarnation of Charles Frodsham, establishing itself as the finest English watch currently in production. Unlike many historical trade names revived in recent decades, Frodsham never truly vanished. Following the broader decline of the British watchmaking industry, the firm survived through retail operations, the production of private-label clocks, and, crucially, the meticulous restoration of significant historical timepieces. That restorative work preserved not only traditional hand skills, but also the rare machinery, specialized tooling, and deep technical knowledge required to make the Double Impulse Chronometer a reality.
At the heart of the watch is a modern interpretation of the natural escapement inspired by the pioneering work of George Daniels. Frodsham’s distinct take features two escape wheels, each powered independently by its own dedicated gear train composed of solid gold wheels and its own mainspring. The austere, distinctly English styling provides a refreshing break from the more flamboyant continental decoration styles that frequently dominate the contemporary market.
Traditional decorative flourishes, such as elaborate anglage, are largely omitted in favor of uncompromised technical excellence. The movement is dominated by a beautifully polished three-arm balance bridge supporting a large free-sprung balance fitted with a hand-formed overcoil hairspring. A discreet power reserve display on the caseback adds practical utility without disrupting the movement’s visual symmetry.
The London-made case is as solid and sleek as a classic English pocket watch. While most commonly crafted from a hardened, proprietary 22-karat yellow gold alloy developed specifically for enhanced durability, this particular example is cased in discreet gray gold, complete with traditional London hallmarks. The case perfectly complements the dial, which is fashioned from zirconium dioxide ceramic rather than traditional enamel, offering a crisp backdrop for the fired-blue hands and matching dial furniture. Furthermore, this watch was optioned with the rare double-honor cypher dial, a motif that historically adorned the dials and movements of elite English marine chronometers. Estimated at CHF120,000 to CHF240,000 (approximately US$145,000 to $290,000), it represents a significant investment that remains compelling within today’s market for top-tier independent horology.
Lot 15 — Philippe Dufour Simplicity with Aventurine Dial Pièce Unique
When introduced back in the year 2000, Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity was arguably two decades ahead of its time. It is a straightforward three-hand watch that, aside from an impeccably crafted case, dial, and base movement, is defined primarily by its breathtaking, lavish movement decoration. This specific lot represents a unique, one-off example of the exact watch that walked so today’s finishing-focused independent watchmakers could run.
Housed in an unusually large 38 mm platinum case—deviating from the Simplicity’s traditional 34 mm or 37 mm historical dimensions—this configuration is extraordinarily rare. Most notably, it completely lacks a seconds hand, an unusual choice on its own, but it is also the only known Simplicity to feature a sparkling aventurine glass dial. While the contemporary market features an extensive array of finely finished three-hand dress watches, the Simplicity remains an undisputed benchmark of restraint and uncompromised construction.
Philippe Dufour originally created this unique piece for a charity auction benefitting the Philippe & Elisabeth Dufour Foundation, which was staged by Christie’s in 2023. As a special accompaniment, the lot includes an original painting of the watch created by Franco-Belgian artist Celine Lust for the charity event. Standing as the undisputed flagship lot of The Blueprint, its pre-sale estimate is set at CHF800,000 to CHF1.6 million (approximately US$970,000 to $1.95 million).
Lot 24 — Voutilainen Vingt-8 "Jumbo" Pièce Unique
Kari Voutilainen is globally celebrated for his peerless dials, and few wristwatches offer more dial estate than this particular creation. Spanning an impressive 44.5 mm in diameter in a white gold case, it is fitted with a hinged, engine-turned white metal caseback. The added height of the hinged back successfully balances the watch’s dramatic lateral growth, preserving classic proportions on the wrist. Opening the caseback reveals a specially enlarged version of the celebrated Vingt-8 movement, while the interior of the cover displays vibrant golden flinqué enamel.
The Vingt-8 movement is widely regarded as one of the finest time-only calibers ever produced. Its namesake 28 mm diameter is traditionally a versatile size capable of fitting comfortably into cases as small as 35 mm, but it had to be substantially scaled up to 32 mm to properly fill the expansive architecture of this "Jumbo" 44.5 mm case. Consequently, this Vingt-8 functions more like a Trente-2.
The movement retains all the celebrated mechanical virtues of the standard caliber, including a natural escapement, a massive free-sprung balance wheel, and a balance spring featuring both a Phillips terminal curve and a Grossmann inner curve. It is meticulously decorated throughout, featuring high-end embellishments such as a solid rose-gold going train and a specular-polished steel balance bridge. Created originally as a unique piece for a collector with larger wrists, this watch eventually sparked a limited subsequent run of "Jumbo" Vingt-8 models, making this historic piece the very first of its kind. Given its rarity, the estimate stands at CHF150,000 to CHF300,000 (approximately US$180,000 to $360,000).
Lot 25 — J.N. Shapiro Infinity
As the first serially produced watch from California-based independent J.N. Shapiro, the Infinity Series served both as a critical stepping stone toward his later "Resurgence" model—the first mechanical watch to meet the United States government’s rigorous "Made in USA" standards in decades—and as an ideal platform to showcase the brand’s homegrown mastery of traditional guilloché.
Composed of several separate silver, gold, and blued-steel components, the dial incorporates a diverse array of engine-turned patterns, most notably the proprietary "Infinity Weave" motif. Inspired by traditional basket-weave guilloché but executed on an exceptionally micro scale, the pattern reflects an extraordinary degree of technical proficiency. The subsidiary seconds register alone requires many hours of painstaking manual labor to complete.
Rather than being soldered together, the dial’s individual sections are secured mechanically with miniature screws, much like a traditional movement plate. The watch is further elevated by free-hand engraved numerals executed by Los Angeles-based engraver Artur Akmaev. Powering the timepiece is the UWD 33.1, a hand-wound German movement derived from Lang & Heyne calibres. Offering a thoroughly high-end mechanical architecture, this titanium example carries a pre-sale estimate of CHF10,000 to CHF20,000 (approximately US$12,000 to $24,000).
Auction Details
The auction opens for bidding today, October 30, at 2:00 PM local Geneva time. Bidding will begin closing in stages starting November 6 at 2:30 PM (GMT+1). For access to the full auction catalogue and to participate in online bidding, visit the official Marteau & Co. website.
