What goes around comes back around, and in the cyclical world of fashion, that nostalgic truth has officially reached the beloved 2000s jewelry and accessories brand Chan Luu. These days, the Los Angeles-born label is back under a different creative director, though it remains reassuringly close to its original iteration. At the helm is Tessa Tran, the niece of founder Chan Luu, who now holds the title of artistic director and guides the brand into its next chapter with a deep respect for its origins.
Tran’s journey with the company is a true homegrown success story. She initially started out as an intern for her aunt at the brand after graduating from the University of California, San Diego (UCSD), before going on to hone her craft by studying at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM). Over the years, Tran slowly and deliberately rose through the ranks of the business, learning every facet of the operation from the ground up.
A major turning point for the company occurred in 2014 when Chan Luu sold a majority stake in her namesake company to private equity and private investors. Despite the shift in corporate ownership, Tran remained a steady presence within the organization, deeply invested in preserving the soul of the enterprise. Nearly a decade later, in 2023, Tran achieved a monumental milestone by fully buying back her family business, returning it to independent, family-led ownership.
Since taking complete control, Tran has worked passionately to revive the once-ubiquitous bohemian label, successfully expanding it into a full-fledged ready-to-wear brand. Remarkably, she has managed to accomplish this expansion while strictly retaining the same artisan-first mentality that her aunt established a quarter-century ago. Today, every garment and accessory is still produced in the exact same factories in India and Vietnam that her aunt relied on during the brand’s early days.
This long-standing partnership with overseas artisans has evolved into something much deeper than a standard manufacturing agreement. "As we’ve grown, our factories have grown with us, becoming a generational family business for both me and them," Tran noted, highlighting the human element that remains central to the brand’s identity.
While Tran has presented her collections at New York Fashion Week for the past few seasons using a presentation format rather than a traditional runway show, her overall approach to the fashion calendar remains distinctly unconventional. She is in no rush to stage a standard high-pressure runway show, though she acknowledges that such a format is not entirely off the table for the future.
Unlike many contemporary contemporary brands that chase fleeting micro-trends and push customers to discard and replace styles season after season, Tran’s design philosophy centers on longevity. Her ultimate goal is to create garments and accessories that will remain cherished, functional parts of people’s wardrobes for many years to come.
"I’m not looking to create anything that you just wear for one season," Tran explained regarding her design ethos. "I want my customers to buy something that’s special and beautiful and when you understand the history of it, you can’t let go of it."
This philosophy does not mean the collections remain static. While fresh designs are introduced with each new collection, loyal customers will consistently find beloved classics woven into the lookbooks. A prime example is the brand’s signature "techno taffeta pant," a staple item that reappears season after season, often updated in a fresh, seasonal colorway to keep it relevant without sacrificing its familiar appeal.
Tran brings a natural ease and effortless sensibility to her styling, effortlessly mixing and matching even the most unexpected pieces within her lookbooks. Born and raised in Southern California, she infuses a distinct West Coast relaxed attitude into every look, aiming to project what her show notes aptly describe as "sensuality without effort."
Even when garments appear inherently dressy—adorned with meticulous hand-embroidered beads and delicate sequins—they are constructed to feel remarkably comfortable once worn, thanks to silhouettes that are loose yet flattering. For instance, casual board shorts are elevated by being crafted from cotton organdy, resulting in a fabric that is slightly sheer and ultralightweight for an effortless, breezy fit. Similarly, caftan-like dresses are reimagined with a polished finish, ensuring they look sophisticated enough for city streets rather than being strictly relegated to the beach.
Accessories, which have always formed the foundational core of the Chan Luu identity, continue to play a vital and prominent role in the brand’s modern iteration. While the ubiquitous beaded wrap bracelets that defined 2000s bohemian style may no longer occupy the cultural spotlight they enjoyed two decades ago, the brand has successfully pivoted toward creating sophisticated, one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces with artisanal appeal.
Looking ahead to the upcoming spring season, customers can expect to see an increased emphasis on seashells and mother-of-pearl earrings—elements that have gradually evolved into signature trademarks for the label—alongside a curated selection of intricate, hand-beaded brooches.
"What I like about the pieces is that you can layer them together, or you can meld them with other things and other brands," Tran said, emphasizing the versatility and democratic nature of her designs. "It’s not a singular show."
