Independent-friendly auction house Marteau & Co. has officially opened its doors for its second themed auction of the fall season. Titled The Blueprint, the catalog features an exclusive lineup of timepieces united by a singular aesthetic theme: every watch presented is, to varying extents, blue or a rich blue-ish purple. Serving as the anchor for the entire event is an exceptional, unconventional timepiece that laid the foundational blueprint for much of today’s modern, finishing-centric independent watchmaking movement.
True to its commitment to supporting the independent watch community, Marteau & Co. continues its innovative “maker’s fee” initiative for this sale. The program directly rewards the original creator of the timepiece by granting them 3% of the hammer price for each successful lot sold. This policy serves as a practical implementation of the artist’s resale right, or droit de suite, a concept deeply codified into law across Europe for the fine arts, allowing contemporary master watchmakers to share in the ongoing market appreciation of their historic works.
Lot 4 – Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur Azur
Arriving as a late-breaking surprise addition to the catalog, the Futur Antérieur Azur represents the striking sky-blue debut of the ongoing collaboration between Louis Erard and legendary independent watchmaker Vianney Halter. Created as a unique piece exclusively for this auction, the watch continues Halter’s established collaborative streak, paying direct homage to his landmark 1998 Antiqua perpetual calendar. Rather than directly replicating the complex original, the Futur Antérieur Azur reinterprets its most characteristic architectural elements into a significantly more compact and approachable format.
The timepiece successfully retains the distinctive asymmetrical display and multi-layered construction that initially set the original Antiqua apart from conventional watchmaking. The hours and minutes are displayed through one porthole, while the running seconds are housed within the other. Louis Erard achieved this visually striking layout on a more accessible budget by utilizing a clever mechanical trick: housing two separate, identical movements side-by-side within the same case, with one dedicated to each sub-dial. In this specific iteration, those movements consist of a pair of Sellita SW100s, making it by far the most straightforward and serviceable Antiqua-style watch ever produced.
While the surrounding case features a somewhat simplified construction compared to its high complication predecessor, it remains instantly recognizable thanks to its signature riveted, studded bezels and crown. Featuring a squircle case geometry that preserves the robust proportions of the original design, the watch carries an accessible pre-sale estimate of CHF 3,000 to 6,000 (approximately US$3,600 to 7,300). Given the immense enthusiasm for Halter’s work, industry observers expect the final hammer price to climb well past its high estimate.
Lot 5 – Vianney Halter Goldpfeil
The auction catalog also highlights a rare piece of independent watchmaking history from the turn of the millennium. Back in 2001, Goldpfeil—a now-defunct German luxury leather goods manufacturer—commissioned an exclusive series of seven unique watches crafted by seven of the era’s most visionary independent watchmakers. Known collectively as the “Seven Masters” collection, the prestigious roster included Svend Anderson, Vincent Calabrese, Bernhard Lederer, Antoine Preziuso, Frank Jutzi, Felix Baumgartner, and Vianney Halter.
Among the seven commissioned models, Halter’s contribution stood out as the most mechanically complicated, the most expensive to produce upon release, and arguably the most desirable among contemporary collectors today. Drawing direct design inspiration from a vintage film camera, the gray-gold case features a unique leatherette texture achieved through countless tiny indentations hammered manually into the metal, complemented by a crown designed to mimic a classic camera winding knob.
Halter engineered a substantial portion of the movement himself—designated the GUB60—utilizing a reliable Peseux 7001 base caliber as his starting point. To this foundation, he integrated an automatic winding system, a jump-hour complication, and a deceptively subtle moon phase display. This specific moon phase utilizes an unusual gear ratio that achieves an impressive accuracy of one day deviation in 139 years, outperforming the 122.6-year accuracy standard found in most modern high-end watchmaking. Despite the renewed market appreciation for Halter’s historic creations, the watch carries a modest estimate of CHF 12,000 to 24,000 (approximately US$14,500 to 29,000).
Lot 8 – Paul Gerber Retro Twin Ref. 158
Representing the pioneering generation of independent watchmakers who came of age during the renaissance of the 1990s, Swiss watchmaker Paul Gerber is celebrated for combining a distinct Swiss-German sensibility with fiercely original mechanical ideas. His diverse professional repertoire spans from quirky complications to ultra-complex grand complications, all while maintaining an understated aesthetic profile.
Gerber is perhaps globally renowned for his work on the Superbia Humanitatis, a timepiece that once shared the title of the most complicated wristwatch ever manufactured alongside Gerald Genta’s Westminster Grande Sonnerie. That masterwork integrated a flying tourbillon, a flyback mechanism, and a split-seconds chronograph into a Louis-Élysée Piguet grand sonnerie movement completed by Franck Muller.
However, a significant portion of Gerber’s independent output focuses on more accessible yet mechanically fascinating pieces, perfectly exemplified by the Retro Twin Ref. 158. Built upon a Peseux 7001 base, Gerber engineered a proprietary automatic winding system featuring two separate operating rotors that function in tandem as a single unit, alongside a power reserve indicator and retrograde seconds. Issued in a strictly limited run of just 20 pieces and offered complete with its original box and certificate, this Ref. 158 carries an approachable estimate of CHF 10,000 to 20,000 (approximately US$12,000 to 24,000).
Lot 12 – Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer
Following more than a decade of meticulous research and development, the introduction of the Double Impulse Chronometer marked the triumphant wristwatch debut of the modern-day incarnation of Charles Frodsham, firmly establishing itself as the finest English wristwatch currently in production. Unlike many historical trade names revived in recent decades, the historic firm of Frodsham never truly vanished. Through decades following the decline of the domestic British watch industry, the company sustained itself via retail operations, the manufacture of private-label clocks, and, most crucially, the expert restoration of significant horological artifacts. That restorative work preserved not only traditional hand skills but also the specialized machinery, tooling, and technical knowledge necessary to bring the Double Impulse Chronometer to life.
At the core of the watch is a modern interpretation of the natural escapement, deeply inspired by the pioneering horological work of George Daniels. Frodsham’s distinct execution powers each escape wheel independently via its own dedicated wheel train forged from solid gold and driven by individual mainsprings. The austere, traditional English styling offers a refreshing departure from the more flamboyant continental movement decoration styles that routinely dominate the broader luxury market.
Elaborate decorative flourishes such as traditional anglage are largely set aside in favor of pure technical excellence. The movement is dominated by a beautifully finished, mirror-polished three-arm balance bridge that supports a large free-sprung balance wheel fitted with a hand-formed overcoil hairspring. A discreet power-reserve indicator positioned on the caseback adds functional utility without disrupting the visual symmetry of the caliber.
The London-crafted case exhibits the solid, sleek character typical of historic English pocket watches. While the model is most frequently produced in a hardened, proprietary 22-karat yellow gold alloy developed specifically to enhance long-term durability, this particular example is cased in discreet gray gold, complete with comprehensive London hallmarks. The case perfectly complements the dial, which is fashioned from zirconium dioxide ceramic rather than traditional enamel, providing a crisp backdrop for the fired-blue steel hands and matching dial furniture. Furthermore, this piece was specified with the rare double-honor cypher dial configuration historically reserved for elite English timepieces and marine chronometers. Offered with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 120,000 to 240,000 (approximately US$145,000 to 290,000), the lot represents a compelling acquisition within the upper tiers of contemporary independent watchmaking.
Lot 15 – Philippe Dufour Simplicity with Aventurine Dial Pièce Unique
When initially introduced in the year 2000, Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity was essentially two decades ahead of its time. Conceived as an understated, three-handed dress watch, its true distinction lay beyond its refined case and dial—in the breathtaking, uncompromising lavishness of its movement finishing. This specific lot represents a rare, one-off execution of the very watch that paved the way for today’s entire finissage-focused independent watchmaking sector.
Housed in a platinum case measuring 38 mm in diameter—making it noticeably larger than standard production versions of the Simplicity, which were historically offered in 34 mm or 37 mm formats—this configuration breaks entirely with convention. Notably, it dispenses with a seconds hand entirely, a rare layout for the model; more importantly, it stands as the only known Simplicity timepiece to feature a glittering aventurine glass dial. While the contemporary market is filled with finely finished time-only watches, the Dufour Simplicity remains a benchmark of restraint, impeccable execution, and uncompromised structural integrity.
Mr. Dufour originally created this specific unique piece for a dedicated charity auction organized by Christie’s in 2023 to benefit the Philippe & Elisabeth Dufour Foundation. Adding to its provenance, the watch is accompanied by an original painting depicting the timepiece, created expressly for the charity sale by Franco-Belgian artist Celine Lust. As the undisputed flagship lot of The Blueprint auction, it commands the highest pre-sale estimate of the event, standing at CHF 800,000 to 1.6 million (approximately US$970,000 to 1.95 million).
Lot 24 – Voutilainen Vingt-8 “Jumbo” Pièce Unique
Kari Voutilainen is globally revered for his mastery of traditional dial craftsmanship, and few wristwatches in his catalog offer a more expansive canvas. Measuring an imposing 44.5 mm in diameter in a white gold case, the watch provides substantial visual presence, enhanced by a hinged, engine-turned white metal caseback. The added height accommodates a specially enlarged version of the legendary Vingt-8 movement inside, while the interior of the hinged caseback reveals a stunning application of golden flinqué enamel.
Voutilainen’s Vingt-8 movement is widely considered one of the finest time-only calibers ever engineered. While its namesake 28 mm diameter represents an ideal middle ground capable of fitting into cases as compact as 35 mm, the movement required substantial redesign and enlargement to 32 mm to adequately fill the expansive proportions of this "Jumbo" case, effectively making it a Trente-2 caliber.
The movement retains all the mechanical virtues of the standard 28 mm architecture, including a natural escapement, a massive free-sprung balance wheel, and a balance spring equipped with both a Phillips terminal curve and a Grossmann inner curve. The finishing reaches the pinnacle of independent watchmaking standards, featuring exquisite embellishments such as a solid rose gold going train and a specular-polished steel balance bridge. Originally commissioned as a unique piece for a collector with a prominent wrist, this singular watch successfully inspired a subsequent limited production run of "Jumbo" Vingt-8 models, though this remains the foundational first. Given its unique status, the lot is estimated at CHF 150,000 to 300,000 (approximately US$180,000 to 360,000).
Lot 25 – J.N. Shapiro Infinity
As the first serially produced wristwatch from California-based independent watchmaker Joshua Shapiro, the Infinity Series served a dual purpose: it acted as an artistic prelude to the Resurgence—the first mechanical watch to officially meet the United States government’s stringent “Made in USA” manufacturing standards in generations—and stood as a prominent platform to showcase the brand’s mastery of traditional guillochage.
Composed of several distinct silver, gold, and blued steel components, the dial incorporates a wide variety of intricate engine-turned patterns, most notably the proprietary “Infinity Weave” motif. Inspired by traditional basket-weave guilloche but executed at a significantly finer scale, the pattern reflects exceptional technical proficiency, with the subsidiary seconds register alone requiring countless hours of meticulous manual execution. Rather than being soldered together, the individual sections of the dial are secured mechanically via micro-screws, mirroring the construction of movement plates. The watch is further elevated by free-hand engraved numerals executed by Los Angeles-based engraver Artur Akmaev.
Beneath the exterior artistry lies the UWD 33.1, a high-end hand-wound German movement derived from Lang & Heyne calibres. Offering a distinct mechanical architecture that contrasts with the classical dial, the movement represents a substantial technical step up from calibres utilized in current production Infinity models. This titanium-cased example carries a pre-sale estimate of CHF 10,000 to 20,000 (approximately US$12,000 to 24,000).
Auction Details
Bidding for The Blueprint opened on October 30 at 2:00 PM local time in Geneva. Lots will begin closing in stages starting on November 6 at 2:30 PM (all times local to Geneva, GMT+1).
Collectors and enthusiasts can access the full auction catalog and place bids online directly through Marteau & Co.’s official portal.
