There is rarely a moment to catch one’s breath in the fast-paced world of vintage watch collecting. With too much to explore and too little time to absorb it all, another Friday is suddenly upon us. Before we sit back to unwind and examine the fascinating timepieces hitting the market over the coming week, it is worth taking a moment to appreciate some unexpected developments elsewhere. Here in the United States, two small-market baseball teams are squaring off in an improbable World Series matchup. The Milwaukee Brewers ranked 19th in total payroll for the 2026 season, while the Tampa Bay Rays ranked 25th, proving that anything is genuinely possible in sports. Huge congratulations are certainly in order for the fans of both organizations, as it shapes up to be an extraordinary series.
Reviewing the scoreboard from last week’s auction picks, the results present a mixed picture of availability and demand. The striking Boucheron remains on the market, while a magnificent Breguet changed hands for €90,000. On the other hand, the IWC Aquatimer passed without meeting its reserve at auction, and the LIP Paul Newman found a buyer at a modest €820.
Strays
Industry experts recently raised a compelling point regarding the enduring undervaluation of Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces in the vintage market. While a particular J2-signed example currently drawing attention is unlikely to ever command a million-dollar price tag, there are several DuoPlan variants that present a far more visually fetching proposition. For enthusiasts on the hunt for a slightly under-the-radar integrated-bracelet sports watch originating from the 1970s or 1980s, the Omega ‘Alveoles’ serves as a worthy contender.
Other notable sightings include a vintage anonymous beauty featuring an 18-karat gold case with running seconds positioned at the top of the dial rather than the traditional bottom placement. From that same auction lineup, it is difficult to find a more striking vintage regulator than the Eterna model crossing the block this coming week.
Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M
The upcoming Dr. Crott auction, scheduled for Halloween, features an entire catalog packed with such an overwhelming array of horological dazzle that it is challenging to know where to direct one’s focus. The offerings include a remarkable collection of pocket watches—particularly school pocket watches—that deserve a thorough independent review of the listings. Standouts in the wrist-worn category include an outrageously beautiful Jaeger-LeCoultre time-only piece, a pair of Longines 13ZN flyback chronographs offered together in a single lot, a likely World War II prisoner-of-war Rolex chronograph, a vintage 13CZAH-powered chronograph from Audemars Piguet, a Zenith G381, and a pair of extraordinary Doxa models comprising both a Sfygmos doctors’ watch and an extremely rare Seconde Morte.
While the Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M may not claim the title of the absolute rarest watch available during the event, its visual preservation demands attention. Although the auction listing does not explicitly designate it as new old stock, the accompanying photographs strongly suggest it is just that, complete with the original purple wax sealing the caseback, an unblemished case, and a factory tag visible in the secondary imagery.
Introduced in 1976, the Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M is a genuinely fascinating piece of diving watch history. Earlier iterations of the brand’s professional divers—specifically the DS-2 Super PH500M—were famously utilized by aquanauts during the historic Tektite I and II underwater missions. Certina’s proprietary DS system, which stands for "double security," remains a notable mechanical endeavor by a respected manufacturer to significantly enhance the ruggedness and shock resistance of a timepiece.
This particular model is undeniably a substantial physical presence on the wrist, measuring 43 millimeters in diameter and a hefty 18 millimeters in thickness. It is difficult to mount a purely rational argument for tolerating such notable thickness aside from the sheer aesthetic payoff captured in the photographs. The dial is simply gorgeous, complemented by flawless luminous material. Sure, it features a screw-down crown, arrives on its original bracelet, and marks Certina’s first 1,000-meter diver equipped with a quickset date function, but those technical selling points take a distant second place to its undeniable visual appeal. Estimated at €1,000 to €2,000, this piece heads to the auction block on Halloween without any opening bids currently recorded.
Ulysse Nardin ‘Big Aviator’ Pilot’s Watch
Another exceptionally cool and uncommon find is the Ulysse Nardin "Big Pilot." While the reference lacks a murky historical background, precise details regarding its production remain sparse, and surviving examples are exceptionally scarce, with only 288 units ever manufactured. Dedicated members of specialized horological forums have historically tracked these rare survivors through collaborative research threads, making the appearance of this fresh-to-market specimen in Germany next Saturday all the more exciting. While they do occasionally surface—Phillips famously sold an example in May for HK$127,000—they remain exceedingly difficult to acquire.
Beyond its limited production numbers, nearly every aspect of the watch is remarkably bold. The 38-millimeter case was considered quite sizable when the watch was originally manufactured during the 1940s. Equally prominent is the sheer volume of radium compound applied to the dial. While debates surrounding historical radioactivity and safe exposure levels are best left to collectors, this timepiece is definitively not suited for anyone who feels uneasy around a clicking Geiger counter.
A close evaluation of the watch’s condition strongly supports the auction catalog’s assertion that this specific piece is likely the best-preserved example to enter the public market to date. The dial is in pristine condition, the luminous material remains remarkably well-preserved, and the case is almost comically free of blemishes. Encountering any 80-year-old watch entirely devoid of caseback scratches or scuffs on its factory-brushed finish is already an impressive feat, but finding this specific, rare reference in such immaculate condition borders on shocking.
Carrying an estimated value between €12,000 and €20,000, this Ulysse Nardin goes under the hammer. For collectors seeking alternative options, the auction also features other fantastic alternatives, including a Lemania TG 195 military chronograph and a steel Longines 13ZN reference 23021 equipped with central seconds and minutes hands.
Svend Andersen World Time "Christopher Columbus"
Svend Andersen’s World Time watches represent true mechanical marvels that often fly under the radar despite past coverage in specialized publications. After spending formative years at Patek Philippe before establishing his own independent workshop, Andersen built an extraordinary career. He is a co-founder of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), once successfully built a functional mechanical clock housed entirely inside a bottle, and has consistently maintained a playful approach to watchmaking through his famous erotic automaton complications.
This particular World Time originates from the watchmaker’s second edition series. Like its predecessor, it is built upon a Frédéric Piguet automatic caliber paired with an Andersen-designed proprietary module dedicated to the world-time complication, while a subsequent third edition launched a year later achieved the title of the thinnest world-time watch of its era. This specific limited edition was originally created to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus landing in the Americas and was offered across various precious metals, including yellow, white, and rose gold, alongside platinum.
This yellow-gold specimen appears to be in exceptional condition, featuring an unblemished dial and a case that has clearly received careful preservation over the years. Measuring 35 millimeters in diameter, it features charming scrolled lugs and fine caseback engraving. Bidding opens at €10,000. The broader auction catalog also warrants a deeper look, highlighting pieces such as an IWC Ingenieur, a Chopard Dual Time, a solid-gold Zenith El Primero chronograph reference G583, and a vintage Breitling Heritage chronograph reference 777 from 1945.
Eterna "Majetek"
Over a decade ago, Eterna reintroduced one of its classic military-issued timepieces. The original reference was produced for the Czech Air Force, initially supplied by Longines and later by both Eterna and Lemania. It earned its famous nickname because the phrase ‘Majetek Vojenské Správy’ was engraved directly onto the casebacks of the Longines-issued pieces, whereas Eterna-issued examples were stamped strictly with distinct serial numbers.
This particular specimen presents quite well considering its advanced age. While the case has clearly undergone some historical polishing, there is a reasonable case to be made that it originated as an officially issued military watch rather than a civilian equivalent, given that the caseback appears to bear traces of removed markings. Regardless of these historical nuances, the watch retains a strong visual presence.
Despite its softened lines, the 38-millimeter cushion-shaped case remains charming, and the glossy dial paired with vintage radium lume is undeniably attractive. The watch is powered by Eterna’s manually wound caliber 852S, a relatively large 31.5-millimeter movement boasting a 50-hour power reserve and a design defined by elegant simplicity. The crown appears original, and while the hand lume has taken on a slightly greenish patina, it remains intact. Priced slightly above $4,000 via Luxo Time Firenze, the valuation leans toward the higher end, but given how infrequently these models appear on the open market, buyers searching for the curved Eterna script may face a long wait for the next opportunity.
