It is a wide world out there, full of seductive objects to pursue far beyond the realm of traditional horology. In the relentless pursuit of filling out the weekly dispatch for Hodinkee’s "What’s Selling Where" column, collectors frequently encounter design delights galore that reside on the absolute fringes of the mainstream luxury market. Sometimes, those pursuits drift well outside the watch world entirely. For instance, for enthusiasts possessing an excess of disposable time and capital alongside a profound dearth of pop-culture memorabilia, a comprehensive auction featuring items from the late Paul Reubens—affectionately known to millions as Pee-wee Herman—is currently underway. Titled, appropriately enough, "Paul Reubens’ Big Auction," the catalog features a treasure trove of eccentric cinematic artifacts, including a replica bicycle from Pee-wee’s Big Adventure complete with a 2011 Visionary Spike TV Scream Award.
Closer to home, the secondary watch market continues to move at a breakneck pace, with last week’s auction picks seeing notable action. The intriguing Orvis Solunagraph is slated to hit the auction block, while the futuristic LIP Mach 2000 is scheduled to find a new home. Looking back at prior results, a Patek Philippe reference 5107 successfully hammered down for €13,500, and a striking Omega DeVille Emerald traded hands for a modest $650, proving that incredible vintage design can still be acquired without breaking the bank.
For those tracking affordable vintage divers of the week, an unexpected entry arrives from Invicta—a brand that frequently serves as a punchline among modern enthusiasts, yet whose vintage catalog can still yield delightful surprises. Alongside a rare 1960s Invicta World Time wristwatch, space cadets can marvel at Alan Bean’s personal Omega Speedmaster Professional BA 145.022-69. Meanwhile, a trio of early electronic Wittnauers offers a project for someone with a high tolerance for non-running movements, while a rose gold chronograph from Juvenia presents an immense amount of mid-century charm. Yet, perhaps the most arresting piece of non-traditional charm this week is an incredible Zenith purse watch featuring a triangular steel case, proving that historical watchmakers were never afraid to experiment with pocket and purse utility. Seiko enthusiasts—specifically those dedicated to the iconic 6139 chronographs often associated with Colonel William Pogue—will find two compelling 6139-6002 examples hitting the market, both offering substantial visual appeal and mechanical fun. Finally, following a previous look at a circular gold Gübelin triple-date moonphase, an outrageously clean rectangular stainless steel iteration of the very same complication has surfaced, demanding serious consideration from collectors who appreciate understated rarity.
A Breguet’s Triple-Date Chronograph With Moon Phase
Stainless steel Breguet triple-date chronographs equipped with moon phase complications are by no means common, though they are not entirely unheard of in top-tier auction rooms. A similar example offered by Phillips during their Geneva Watch Auction in 2018 commanded CHF 131,250. Christie’s subsequently sold another specimen the following year for CHF 300,000, before moving yet another piece in 2022 for CHF 176,400.
What sets the current example apart from those previous heavy-hitters—aside from the fact that those past lots featured cleaner, more pristine dials—is an unassailable level of provenance: this particular watch hails directly from the personal collection of Emmanuel Breguet himself. Serving as the Vice President and Head of Patrimony at Montres Breguet, and sharing a direct familial line to the legendary inventor of the tourbillon, Emmanuel Breguet’s personal connection to the piece makes it exceptionally significant. In terms of horological pedigree, it is difficult to imagine a more meaningful background.
The horological dream, of course, is to acquire a flawless, investment-grade example, which this watch admittedly is not. The dial displays minor imperfections and signs of age that detract from absolute perfection. However, given that this exact reference is rare enough to merit overlooking minor aesthetic hurdles, the added weight of its provenance creates a fascinating dichotomy for potential buyers—reminiscent of the famous Rubin vase illusion, where perspective entirely dictates the viewing experience.
Beyond the dial and its unlumed dauphine hands, the steel case appears to be in remarkably solid condition, featuring crisp and legible caseback engravings. Because the listing heavily emphasizes the watch’s illustrious lineage, determining its pure intrinsic value as a timepiece becomes a complex exercise. Exactly what is the market value of owning a watch directly from a Breguet family member? The market will decide when the piece crosses the auction block, carrying a pre-sale estimate ranging between €80,000 and €160,000.
LIP ‘Paul Newman’ Chronograph
This specific vintage LIP reference received a thorough and analytical deep-dive back in 2017, a fact that somewhat complicates the evaluation of the current specimen. While that prior research expertly mapped out the known variants of the reference, the watch currently under consideration does not neatly align with any of the previously documented examples owned by researchers.
Intrepid collectors who enjoy getting lost in the weeds of vintage catalog variations will find plenty to ponder here. It is worth remembering that French manufacturer LIP was struggling through severe existential and structural challenges during the turbulent 1970s. Given those corporate hardships, expecting strict manufacturing consistency or clear demarcations between various component batches is likely a fool’s errand. It is entirely reasonable to assume that this watch was assembled using whatever authentic parts were available on the factory floor at the time, with zero anticipation that horological journalists would scrutinize its subdial printing decades later.
Regardless of corporate history, the watch possesses undeniable visual merit. The gold-plated case measures a wearable 36mm, boasting sharp, well-defined lugs, though a minor ding is visible along the bottom of the bezel between the five and six o’clock positions. The primary focus, however, naturally gravitates toward the dial and handset, which introduce further layers of complexity. Specifically, the running seconds subdial at nine o’clock and the LIP logo appear slightly smudgy, hinting at an imperfect original overprinting process.
The black hand utilized on the nine o’clock subdial departs from previously established scholarly norms, yet comparable hand configurations have indeed surfaced on other verified examples traded in the vintage market. The correct blue hour and minute hands remain intact and attractive, while the chronograph seconds and minute hands have gracefully faded to a pale, warm orange hue. The Valjoux 7733 movement driving the watch currently requires professional attention, as the chronograph function is non-functional; nevertheless, these robust cam-switching calibers are ubiquitous enough that any competent watchmaker should be able to restore smooth operation with relative ease.
With a surprisingly modest estimate of €500 to €800, this vintage chronograph represents an accessible entry point for collectors. For those whom this specific LIP model fails to captivate, a rarer alternative—the LIP reference 765, which is essentially a Breitling chronograph in everything but name—is also making the rounds.
The IWC Aquatimer Reference 812
The fact that the Aquatimer remains a cornerstone of the contemporary IWC catalog makes examining the genesis of the model an essential exercise. Yet, beyond historical importance, the primary driver for appreciating this particular piece is its sheer aesthetic brilliance. Designed around a classic EPSA-produced super compressor case from the golden era of 1960s dive watches, it belongs to a beloved genre populated by many great pieces. For enthusiasts who adore the aesthetic but seek a more budget-friendly alternative, historical counterparts from brands like Hamilton and Bulova offer a remarkably similar visual signature.
Introduced in 1967, the Aquatimer reference 812 marked IWC’s late yet formidable entry into the professional dive watch sector. Offering water resistance up to 20 atmospheres, the watch easily kept pace with contemporary industry standards. The 37mm stainless steel case exhibits the stubby, short-lug profile characteristic of compressor-cased watches from the period, but this specific specimen presents exceptionally well. Furthermore, the presence of the original IWC-signed crown offers reassuring evidence that the watch has neither endured an excessively brutal life nor suffered from over-polishing or incorrect replacement parts during past services.
The true standout feature of this Aquatimer, however, is the remarkable condition of its dial, handset, and internal rotating bezel. While IWC eventually produced four distinct dial and bezel layout variations, this configuration represents the earliest and purest execution: a stark black rotating bezel framing a matching black dial. The tritium lume plots are particularly noteworthy not only for their uniform, creamy aging across both dial and hands, but also because the heavy application of luminous material on the handset remains remarkably intact without visible cracking. While no formal ranking exists for the greatest watch hands in history, the distinctive paddle-ended seconds hand of the IWC 812 certainly deserves a spot near the top tier.
Although the auction listing omits specific movement details, the watch is driven by the legendary IWC caliber 8541—an exceptional automatic movement featuring a Breguet overcoil, sharing its architectural pedigree with the prestigious Ingenieur models of the same era. While the absence of its original steel bracelet is a slight disappointment, it serves to keep the acquisition cost more grounded. Estimated between €5,000 and €5,500, the watch is heading to auction in Spain.
Boucheron White Gold Carré
To close out this week’s survey of exceptional finds, we turn to a true mystery piece. Boucheron has long held a legendary reputation in the jewelry space, but their vintage wristwatches remain comparatively understudied, making comparative analysis and authentication a genuine challenge. By their very nature, Boucheron watches are foremost high-end jewelry pieces where artistic expression and stylistic daring frequently take precedence over strict horological complications.
Consider a mid-1960s white gold Boucheron Carré featuring a massive, stylized, hand-painted letter "B" emblazoned across the exact center of the dial. Encountering such an unusual design immediately triggers a desire for corroborating examples to confirm authenticity, which is where things become delightfully tricky. Another Carré in yellow gold featuring the same dial typography exists, though it happens to be offered by the same specialized dealer. A thorough search reveals a solitary white gold Boucheron bearing a similar dial treatment in Tokyo, providing a degree of reassurance. True comfort, however, only arrives after consulting authoritative scholarship on the brand’s vintage catalog, confirming that such avant-garde artistic flourishes were indeed part of the maison’s mid-century output.
Preamble aside, this is an undeniably cool object of design. Setting aside the un-overlookable painted initial at the core of the dial, the applied hour markers are exquisitely executed, particularly the prominent Roman numeral XII positioned at the top. Measuring a diminutive 24 by 28 millimeters, the unpolished white gold case remains razor-sharp, with crisp caseback hallmarks. True to the mechanical ingenuity found in other Boucheron Reflet models of the era, this Carré utilizes a sliding rail mechanism where the strap attachments slide out from the top and bottom of the case structure.
Available from High End Time for $9,150, this timepiece represents the ultimate acquisition for a collector who desires absolute exclusivity—a watch you are vanishingly unlikely to ever encounter on anyone else’s wrist. There is an undeniable allure to a creation that effortlessly achieves an extreme level of refined elegance while retaining a charming dash of the handcrafted.
