Two years after marking its entry into the fragrance market with its debut perfume, Retrospect, beauty brand Merit is expanding its olfactory footprint today with the official launch of its sophomore scent, New Wave.
While Merit’s first fragrance offering leaned heavily into a profile that was fruity, floral, and fresh, New Wave takes a distinctly different direction. Borrowing its name from the influential French cinema movement defined by its artistic disruption and bold creative risks, the new scent is designed to be sensual, daring, deep, and bold. Retailing starting from $34, the release introduces a sophisticated gourmand character to the brand’s growing lineup.
The launch arrives as beauty brands increasingly focus on high-concentration extraits that offer extended longevity on the skin, moving away from lighter body mists and traditional eaux de toilette. For consumers who lean toward lighter floral profiles, exploring a deeper, more complex scent profile can often present a challenge, particularly given how heavy gourmand compositions can sometimes be. However, early testers have found that the careful orchestration of notes in New Wave offers a surprising versatility that bridges the gap between rich warmth and bright vitality.
What Is New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum?
Like its predecessor Retrospect, New Wave is formulated as an extrait de parfum, meaning it carries a significantly higher fragrance concentration than traditional market alternatives. While a standard eau de toilette typically features a fragrance concentration of 5 to 15 percent, and an eau de parfum sits between 15 and 20 percent, New Wave boasts a potent 30 percent fragrance concentration. This high concentration is engineered to provide exceptional staying power and depth on the skin.
The fragrance was formulated by master perfumer Dominique Ropion, a renowned figure in the fragrance industry known for his work on numerous iconic scents. During the development process, Ropion and the Merit team incorporated unique elements into the composition, including accords gleaned directly from oak barrels historically used to age Cognac. This specialized extraction method contributes an incredible layer of richness and complexity to the overall scent profile.
The olfactory structure of New Wave is built across multiple distinct layers. The fragrance opens with top notes featuring pink pepper and angelica seed, providing an immediate, energetic kick. The heart notes introduce a rich floral blend of orange flower and ylang-ylang, harmonized with a distinct honey accord. Finally, the base grounds the fragrance in a complex mixture of rich musks, traditional incense, and deep woods, creating a lingering trail that develops gradually over the course of wear.
A Balanced Composition and Long-Lasting Wear
Upon initial application, the most prominent note that emerges is a warm vanilla, underscored by a subtle hint of the Cognac-soaked cedarwood. Thanks to the carefully balanced citrus and floral heart notes, the fragrance successfully avoids becoming cloying. Instead, it strikes a careful equilibrium between a bright opening and a sultry dry-down, anchored by heavy musks and woods.
The composition also features a slight smokiness derived from a tobacco accord. This tobacco note is rendered smoothly, avoiding the dizzying intensity that can sometimes characterize tobacco-forward perfumes. Meanwhile, the peppery top notes introduce a vibrant kick that prevents the scent from leaning too heavily into traditional gourmand territory, providing a persistent tingling energy that keeps the various profiles in motion.
True to its formulation as a high-concentration extrait, New Wave delivers on longevity. Mirroring the performance of Retrospect, the fragrance provides a solid twelve hours of wear time without significant fading. Spritzing the product in the morning allows the wearer to continue catching distinct notes on the skin late into the night, even after a full day of activities or evening events. This extended longevity makes it a practical option for individuals who prefer a low-maintenance beauty routine and do not wish to carry products for midday reapplication.
Beyond the juice itself, the physical presentation of the fragrance draws heavily from artistic inspiration. The sculptural glass bottle is designed as an ode to the name New Wave, utilizing soft undulations and organic curves that mimic the movement of bobbing waves. The packaging design takes conceptual cues from Surrealist art, resulting in a distinct silhouette that stands apart on a crowded vanity.
The Bottom Line
The introduction of New Wave signals Merit’s continued commitment to thoughtful, high-performance fragrance formulation. By collaborating with a master perfumer like Dominique Ropion and incorporating unique materials like Cognac barrel accords, the brand has created a sophomore scent that broadens its market appeal.
For consumers seeking a bold, bright fragrance capable of commanding a room while maintaining an underlying softness, New Wave offers a compelling alternative to traditional mainstream gourmands. Its combination of high concentration, complex layers, and artistic packaging establishes it as a notable addition to the contemporary fragrance landscape.
