This afternoon, the 41st International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories in Hyères, France, officially announced its winners, marking a watershed moment for the storied institution at the historic Villa Noailles. Taking home the prestigious Grand Prize was Shanghai-based designer Yui Chen for “Food Cover,” a womenswear-leaning unisex lineup that she described as a vital method for preserving childhood memories. Developed in close collaboration with Montex, Chen’s striking silhouettes cleverly combined everyday pieces—such as a vibrant yellow lingerie dress—with collapsible overlayers, ranging from tent-like structures crafted in transparent lace to intricate cages fashioned from leather bows.
During her showroom presentation, Chen detailed her meticulous creative process, explaining that she models every single piece in miniature at least once before constructing the actual garments. Among her standout designs was an eight-paneled sheath dress constructed from recycled leather that folds entirely flat, much like an accordion, into eight distinct sections. Discussing her overarching artistic philosophy with Vogue, Chen noted, "Fashion is the most vivid form of theater. My dream would be to create a whole universe and language, like Issey Miyake did."
The victory is historic for the festival, as Chen becomes the first Chinese designer to capture its top fashion honor. Her win comes with robust backing and support from Chanel, the festival’s long-term Grand Partner, alongside new Grand Partner le19M and its ten specialized maisons d’art. Additional grants and backing will be provided by sponsors including the Atelier des Matières, Supima, and newcomer Watteau, the visual content hub, as well as Les Teintures de France, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp, and Richemont’s AZ Academy. Furthermore, all of this year’s fashion laureates will be showcased by Première Classe during Paris Fashion Week in both March and October 2027.
The wider circle of fashion winners featured an eclectic and internationally diverse group of talents. The London-based artist and designer Dieter Vlasich Obermann, representing Mexico and Germany, scooped the coveted le19M Métiers d’Art Prize for a collection deeply inspired by tiliches—the Mexican colloquialism for "junk"—and the hidden traditional handicraft that such discarded materials can conceal. Meanwhile, Paris-based Dutch designer Rachel Luurssen was awarded the Atelier des Matières Prize for a womenswear collection informed by a complex interplay of Hollywood glamour, coquette aesthetics, fading beauty, and body dysmorphia.
In the menswear categories, Paris-based Chinese designer Xiao Xu claimed the Supima Prize for "Uncanny," a collection rooted in latex, 1970s fetish culture, traditional embroidery, and innovative knitwear. Earning both a special mention and the Public Prize was Brais Albor Rodriguez of Spain, whose whimsical and improbable collection wittily fused the concept of squirrels—utilizing shearling sourced affordably via the resale platform Vinted—with masculine bravado. Additional Grand Prizes were awarded to Sassa Ann van Wyk for Accessories and Motoki Nakatani for Photography.
As in creative studios the world over, a strong sense of renewal hung heavily in the air at the Villa Noailles this year. The festival’s official motif—a racing flag bearing a star set against a pink-and-green checkered ground—served as a visual signal that the renowned cultural event is firmly back on track following recent challenges. Organizers characterized this particular edition as a "year of firsts," a designation earned not only by Chen’s historic win, but also by managing director Hugo Luccino’s deliberate decision to place women at the head of every single judging jury. Chloé creative director Chemena Kamali led the fashion jury, photographer Camille Vivier oversaw photography, and Danish fashion designer Cecilie Bahnsen headed the accessories panel.
The prominence of female leadership extended far beyond the jury rooms. During her official welcome speech, Josée Massi—the mayor of Toulon, who earlier this spring became the first woman president of the Métropole Toulon Provence Méditerranée—addressed the 30 international finalists with an encouraging message: "You already have your place. Talent is not about one prize." Following her remarks, Hyères’ newly elected mayor, Véronique Bernardini, who made history as the first woman to hold the post since its creation in 1677, opened the festivities by playing on a famous Gabrielle Chanel maxim: "Trends pass, but style remains… and in Hyères, audacity is never out of style."
At the celebratory reception, Massi praised the strategic decision to bring portions of the fashion show directly to the Forum du Casino in the heart of Hyères, emphasizing a commitment to local accessibility. "This is a renaissance," Massi told Vogue. "Culture shouldn’t be elitist. We have to get as close to people as we can." Emphasizing the importance of engaging the youngest demographic, she added, "I often say that the future stands less than a meter tall. We have to go out and find them."
Massi outlined a vision where Hyères and neighboring Toulon function as twin cultural hubs dedicated respectively to fashion and design. Toulon already hosts a satellite campus of the École Camondo interior architecture and design school, and discussions are underway to potentially relocate the Design Parade to Toulon’s Porte d’Italie district as early as next year.
Valérie Duport, who assumed the presidency of the Villa Noailles in July, also noted a personal milestone, remarking simply, "I was the one who raised my hand," when asked about taking on the leadership role. Duport paid tribute to the enduring legacy of France’s premier fashion festival, emphasizing that longevity is far from guaranteed in the modern creative industries. Looking toward the future of the institution, she asserted, "The Villa Noailles is a living place. When you have that, you welcome people in."
Addressing the financial and structural realities head-on, Duport revealed that a comprehensive roadmap is already in place to systematically pay off approximately €1.3 million of existing debt over the next two years, clearing the path for a fresh start.
The installations and exhibitions this year also featured prominent returns from celebrated alumni. Lucas Emilio Brunner, who captured last year’s Grand Prize with a collection built around inflatables, returned to showcase "Standards," a meticulously crafted lineup inspired by sports flags and 1960s Ivy League style, produced in collaboration with the Ateliers de Verneuil. Standout pieces included draped striped poplin shirts, polos featuring contrasting trim, and an intricate coat executed in leather marquetry.
Other returning alumni included Emma Bruschi, winner of the 2020 le19M Métiers d’Art Prize, who headlined a collaborative straw-weaving workshop alongside Galerie le19M. Amaury Darras, the 2025 Accessories Grand Prize laureate, presented "Keratina Medusa," a striking Art Nouveau-inspired corset created in partnership with Goossens that brilliantly bridges fine cabinetry and jewelry-making. Adrien Michel, the 2025 le19M Métiers d’Art Prize winner, debuted a capsule collection inspired by Marcel Breuer’s iconic Cesca B34 chair, anchored by a clever shirt that folds directly out of a custom leather case produced with Studio MTX. Sébastien Meunier, who launched his eponymous label after winning the Hyères Grand Prize back in 1998, also returned with "Re-Authored," a deeply personal re-examination of his own creative legacy.
Looking ahead, Hugo Luccino explained that the Villa Noailles is entering a new chapter characterized by broader community engagement, noting that the venue’s doors will remain open for longer stretches throughout the year. Expanded public programming will build upon the foundation of the core fashion and design festivals by introducing museum-style exhibitions and reviving a robust roster of international artistic residencies.
"It’s the festival of creativity, a place for young talents to express themselves however they like," Luccino reflected on the enduring mission of the event. "They’re the ones who are asking the questions and, above all, will inhabit and imagine the world of tomorrow. There aren’t always answers. Sometimes there are more questions than answers—but these are subjects that are here to stay. And the first signs of those artistic intuitions, you find them in Hyères."
The exhibitions and programming for the 41st International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories in Hyères remain open to the public through February 28, 2027, welcoming visitors Wednesday through Sunday from 1:00 PM to 6:00 PM.
