Two years after marking its entry into the fragrance market with the debut of Retrospect, Merit is officially launching its sophomore scent, New Wave. While the brand’s first fragrance leaned into a fruity, floral, and fresh profile, New Wave arrives as a much more sensual, daring, deep, and bold offering. Taking its name from the influential French cinema movement, the new launch represents a distinct shift toward richness and complexity for the minimalist beauty brand.
Priced starting at $34, New Wave arrives following months of anticipation from beauty enthusiasts and industry insiders alike. Formulated by legendary master perfumer Dominique Ropion, the scent ventures into gourmand territory while incorporating unexpected elements that elevate it far beyond a traditional sweet fragrance.
True to the formulation style established by Retrospect, New Wave is classified as an extrait de parfum. This designation means it carries a significantly higher fragrance concentration than standard industry offerings. While a typical eau de toilette generally features a fragrance concentration between 5 and 15 percent, and an eau de parfum sits at 15 to 20 percent, New Wave boasts a robust 30 percent concentration. This high concentration is engineered to deliver exceptional longevity on the skin, a defining characteristic that sets the product apart in a crowded marketplace of luxury fragrances.
The creation of New Wave involved meticulous craftsmanship, notably utilizing unique accords gleaned directly from oak barrels historically used to age Cognac. This specific sourcing technique imparts an incredible depth and richness to the scent profile that standard synthetic or plant-based extractions struggle to replicate.
The olfactory journey of New Wave begins with top notes characterized by a sharp kick of pink pepper paired with angelica seed. This spicy and invigorating opening prevents the fragrance from sliding into an overly cloying sweetness. The heart of the fragrance transitions into a rich floral blend anchored by orange flower, ylang-ylang, and honey, providing a lush, enveloping center. Finally, the base notes ground the scent with a complex mixture of heavy musks, incense, and deep woods, complemented by a subtle smokiness derived from a tobacco accord.
Upon application, the dominant initial impression highlights vanilla seamlessly intertwined with a hint of Cognac-soaked cedar. The presence of the citrus heart notes ensures a careful equilibrium between brightness and sultry warmth, the latter of which deepens as the wood and musk base notes develop on the skin. Despite the inclusion of a tobacco accord, the composition avoids the dizzying heaviness that frequently characterizes tobacco-forward perfumes. Instead, the peppery top notes maintain a vibrant energy, keeping all the underlying profiles in motion throughout the wear time.
One of the most notable performance attributes of New Wave is its remarkable longevity. Delivering on the high concentration of the formula, the extrait provides a solid 12 hours of wear without fading. A morning application applied before heading out for the day remains detectable on the skin late into the night, even after a full schedule of evening events. For individuals with low-maintenance routines who prefer not to reapply products throughout the day, this extended endurance serves as a major functional benefit.
Beyond the liquid inside, the physical presentation of New Wave draws heavily from artistic inspiration. The packaging features a custom-designed glass bottle that takes a clear cue from Surrealist art. Merit conceived the sculptural container as an ode to the fragrance’s namesake, incorporating soft undulations and organic curves designed to mimic bobbing waves. The result is a highly tactile, unconventional object that stands out among standard vanity displays.
The reception of New Wave indicates that it is positioned to become a major player in Merit’s growing product ecosystem. For consumers seeking a fragrance that commands a room with boldness and brightness while retaining an underlying sense of softness, the sophomore release offers a compelling new option. Whether worn for everyday routines or packed into a carry-on suitcase for destination events across the globe, the scent marks a confident and sophisticated evolution for the brand’s fragrance category.
